All things car trailer.

With more and more of us using a car trailer on a semi regular basis, thought I'd start a thread to discuss.

Trailer maintenance


~ Tire pressure, inflate to max shown on the tire sidewall, yes even if trailering lighter loads.

~ Keep a regular eye on your tires for signs of weather cracking etc, tire covers or even a piece of plywood to block the sun will add life to them. Same goes to excessive rust etc on the rims

~ Start of the season, remove each wheel, check hub for excessive rust on the mounting face, clean if required, light coat of copper never seize and torque nuts when reinstalling.

~ If your axles are equipped with either bearing buddies or drilled / greaseable option, with wt off the wheel (jack up on the axle is fine) remove the dust cap and add grease while slowly spinning the wheel. Both systems have a spring loaded indicator to show when it's full. This should be done at least at the start of each season and good idea to repeat after each use or two, more often if you travel longer distances especially when it's hot out.

~ Safety chains must have positive lock hooks, S type hooks are no longer legit. When hooked to your tow vehicle, chains must be crossed.

~ Tie down straps, load range must be clearly marked and straps in good shape with no snags or cuts. As for how to use, some inspectors insist at least rear tie downs must be crossed / X'd to prevent load from shifting sideways, good idea to cross front and rear when possible.

~ Realistically, should do a full frame and suspension check before start of the season plus at least a light look over springs, shackles and general frame condition before each use. Walk around to check lights before pulling out of the drive way is a no brainer.

Loading your ride, not sure where this came from but do see the odd person loading a car (empty shell or trailer long enough to move load far enough forward are exceptions) on the trailer backwards. To say the practice is dangerous would be an understatement. Did you know, even when pulling with a dually or similar all it would take is a couple or three little scallops / whoops in the road to see the trailer and truck start a motion that would lift / take enough wt off the rear of your truck for it to suddenly change direction? Yes exception to the rule would be a trailer long enough to move vehicle further forward. Just because you may have done it a "million times" without incident does not mean your not an accident looking for a place to happen.
Some may also not be aware, how far forward or backward you tie your ride down makes a profound difference in how your truck n trailer combo perform. While you need adequate tongue wt, no upside to having excessive wt and having the trucks butt dragging or just plain driving poorly. If your unsure, good idea to buy a tonque wt scale, not expensive. There are also a few apps out there that do that and then some.

https://www.sherline.com/wp-content/...lm2000_pic.jpg

Can anyone chime in if electric brake breakaway boxes are required by law or just suggested? Same goes for if law to have breakaway cable to activate hyd brakes?

Great question ZR, I currently borrow a trailer with electric brakes on both axles but no breakaway box.
I hear good things about those Miska trailers too.

One I bought is the twin to Dave's trailer. Was originally looking at a new full aluminum or perhaps steel / galvanized dipped but this one fell into my lap on a deal that was too good to pass up.
Will be looking to make Left fender removable or perhaps load with a winch, maybe both.

Anyone have experience with this app?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUORyaTjXIk

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Originally Posted by ZR

To say the practice is dangerous would be an understatement.

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https://thumbs.gfycat.com/AbsoluteFl...restricted.gif

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Originally Posted by ZR

Anyone have experience with this app?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUORyaTjXIk

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We run Weigh Safe Hitches to check tonque weight. Also to answer your question had a couple open decks fail annuals this year because the electric breakaway box was inop, so do believe it's a requirement.

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Originally Posted by ZR

Can anyone chime in if electric brake breakaway boxes are required by law or just suggested? Same goes for if law to have breakaway cable to activate hyd brakes?

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required by law on trailers with brakes - first thing the DOT will check for and test in a raodside inspection - could b after a certain weight but my understanding trailers with brakes need a back up braking system... I don't work on the small trailers enough to know the exact law.

^^^Keep in mind now - personal trailers don't need a safety certificate nor does the truck if it is also personal - the kicker to this for car guys or race guys the DOT may question you if they find tools on either one of the vehicles when coupled -

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Originally Posted by ZR

Loading your ride, not sure where this came from but do see the odd person loading a car (empty shell or trailer long enough to move load far enough forward are exceptions) on the trailer backwards. To say the practice is dangerous would be an understatement. Did you know, even when pulling with a dually or similar all it would take is a couple or three little scallops / whoops in the road to see the trailer and truck start a motion that would lift / take enough wt off the rear of your truck for it to suddenly change direction? Yes exception to the rule would be a trailer long enough to move vehicle further forward. Just because you may have done it a "million times" without incident does not mean your not an accident looking for a place to happen.
Some may also not be aware, how far forward or backward you tie your ride down makes a profound difference in how your truck n trailer combo perform. While you need adequate tongue wt, no upside to having excessive wt and having the trucks butt dragging or just plain driving poorly. If your unsure, good idea to buy a tonque wt scale, not expensive. There are also a few apps out there that do that and then some.

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Just to clarify, you are referring to vehicles that have much more front than rear weight? If that's the case, how would you load a mid or rear engine vehicle?

Great looking product, lil on the spendy side but looks like one of those get what you pay for kinda deals.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1500_.jpg

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Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie

Just to clarify, you are referring to vehicles that have much more front than rear weight? If that's the case, how would you load a mid or rear engine vehicle?

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Yes exactly that scenario. Based on how far back many / most trailer mfg's are locating the axles, suspect they are building in a higher level of idiot proofing into their offerings vs years gone by. While that puts a product out there thats harder to make dangerous, leaves most with tongue wt far above whats needed to be safe unless they load with with rear bumper pretty much even with rear of the trailer. Example, when using a U Haul transporter for my own car, position front tire just behind cross bar for the tire basket and use my own straps (front and rear) to secure. Still leaves it with excessive tongue wt but way closer to manageable. Of course with smaller / lighter cars, less of an issue. Trailer I just bought, axles are a good ways further back vs where I'd think is optimal for my use, I'll use tongue wt scale to confirm but moneys on rear bumper ends up pretty much even with rear of the trailer.
Good thought on the mid or rear engine car, if trailer is long enough, bet you can bring far enough forward to keep the hitch scale happy or if req'd, load backwards. Based on wheel positioning of my own trailer, bet more than enough room to get it balanced n pulling safely.
Funny story about wheel positioning and wt carrying, back in the day, local major wrecker supplier built me their first ever roll off / alum flat bed tow truck with a stinger on an extended cab dually chassis. Truck looked great n drove well but even with a car on the deck we could not keep front wheels of the truck on the ground with even a small car on the stinger. Seems they made a lil miscalculation on wheel base, truck required complete dismantle and re stretch chassis n reinstall wrecker.
Back to car trailers, for those pulling with a 3/4 ton or perhaps one ton dually, extra tongue wt would easily go un noticed unless loading with a scale or similar. Same extra wt on a 1/2 ton and the truck tells you in a hurry to sort things out.

Wish I knew more about wt distribution hitches, can anyone chime in?
Perhaps more of us should be using them, not sure.
Talked to a couple of trailer shops about them but came away feeling I was getting more of a salesman's pitch vs real world advice.

Not needed on a open deck pulling a car IMO. However if you had a long wheelbase enclosed with cabinets or equipment or heavy RV trailer a definite yes in my opinion. More RV in my opinion where you can't really adjust the tongue weight as much and might end up with a unit that isn't right where you feel it needs to be.

Also yes on the weigh safe, high price but high function. If you have one trailer/one cargo type deal then properly setting up tongue weight does really need that as you can dial it in low tech once and remember. But for a multiple trailer/varying cargo situation it pulls a lot of the guess work out.

Agree with this. ^^^^ WD not needed with most car trailers and most cars. Go with a 27 ft enclosed with a pickup in it a WD hitch might be prudent. Check the tongue weight limit on your trucks hitch. It will also list tongue weight with WD hitch. I am certain you will be fine with almost any load you put on there. Make sure the ball on your hitch is rated for enough to tow the weight of the trailer plus load. I would say get the highest rated ball and drawbar you can. I also think that safety chains must have weight and certification tags on them. My camper does.

I did some research on the "Breakaway Braking Systems" and it's kind of all over the place. I've worked on these systems and have installed them in the past and was under the impression they where required. In Ontario it seems this is not the case they are not required. If you purchased a new trailer and the "Breakaway System" is installed it's likely the trailer was built in a state or province that requires the Breakaway System". The only requirement I can find for Ontario is over 3000 pounds requires brakes on at least one axle. Now if you have a trailer with the "Breakaway System" and it is not working the Ministry may enforce that for the simple fact, that everything on the trailer needs to be working. One other note that I have experienced with the DOT in Ontario - if they see this system on a trailer they will use it to test the trailer brakes to ensure the trailer brakes are working. If they activate the Breakaway System and your brakes don't come on they will assume your trailer brakes don't work. I've had this happen to customers. My advice if it is not required in Ontario and you don't leave Ontario remove it or make sur the system works. If you plan on taking your trailer out of Ontario the laws may change in regards to this.

^ Appreciate your chiming in.

So what's a safe tongue weight to aim for? I assume moving the car front or rear would change it
Safe weight web site says approx. 10% of trailer weight so I guess I just answered my own question

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Originally Posted by Laffs

Not needed on a open deck pulling a car IMO. However if you had a long wheelbase enclosed with cabinets or equipment or heavy RV trailer a definite yes in my opinion. More RV in my opinion where you can't really adjust the tongue weight as much and might end up with a unit that isn't right where you feel it needs to be.

Also yes on the weigh safe, high price but high function. If you have one trailer/one cargo type deal then properly setting up tongue weight does really need that as you can dial it in low tech once and remember. But for a multiple trailer/varying cargo situation it pulls a lot of the guess work out.

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Have to agree with this on distribution hitches - I've only seen them on trailers longer that 16' with heavy loads or loads the may range widely across the deck - they do help with sway - There is a 25" Airstream (1973) in my driveway it is equipped with this very heavy trailer

I had a scary situation last year pulling a 2 horse trailer - had one brake stopped working on one side causing the trailer to swing back and forth and the one side continued to work - pulled over and disconnected the brakes and nursed it home - really important to make sure everything is working - it doesn't hurt to get out and check at the destination before returning and also periodically if on a long trip....

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Originally Posted by 1BAD92LX

So what's a safe tongue weight to aim for? I assume moving the car front or rear would change it
Safe weight web site says approx. 10% of trailer weight so I guess I just answered my own question

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think a standard car hauler is pretty safe - If the truck and trailer look level or close to it its probably ok - also make sure you have the correct drop height on the ball - I often see people with the tongue too high or too low - if the rear truck suspension is beyond maxed out and really low compared to the front of the truck probably not a good idea to tow.

My truck does squat pretty good but have adjustable height hitch to level out trailer. I have the car location on the trailer figured out to help out the rear end of the truck.
Will be adding a air assist/leveling system to my next truck
Seems like most car hauler trailer locate their axles too far rearward, maybe just me?

^ Yes yes and yes they most certainly do.
As I eluded to, suspect axle position is to help idiot proof the trailer itself and end up with too much tongue vs too little.

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Originally Posted by 1BAD92LX

My truck does squat pretty good but have adjustable height hitch to level out trailer. I have the car location on the trailer figured out to help out the rear end of the truck.
Will be adding a air assist/leveling system to my next truck
Seems like most car hauler trailer locate their axles too far rearward, maybe just me?

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It seems that way to me on the rear ward position of some car haulers - generally there is at least 4 ft behind the rear axle and the front axle not quite centre on an 18' trailer - helper air springs are good not sure what your truck is but maybe it needs a little help - I'm really happy with my new F150 suspension handle the 25' Airstream fairly well when I move it around and I imaging the new trucks are much lighter but for a 1500 I was impressed over some of the older 1500 I have towed with - I used a uhaul a few years ago and towed an old volvo with my Avalanche and it seemed to work out good (dimensions of the trailer) you want to try and keep some weight on the steer tires for even road contact and better handling

I'm not sure what problem they are trying to solve with a breakaway system on top of electric brakes. If your properly hooked up, chains are to correct length and crossed, cord is correct length plug is properly in it's socket (8way plug has a retainer nub on the door that helps hold plug in place), even if the ball was to somehow fail, trailer would stay plugged in meaning it still has brakes controlled by the truck. Not sure about other trucks, Ram factory controller in my truck is even smart enough to know if trailer is plugged in and there is a connection issue with the brakes. Confirmed it last night by pushing plug in just far enough to bring lights on by not far enough to make full connection, warning for no trailer brakes came up n the dash, push plug rest of the way in and it goes out.
As for the breakaway system, battery is up on charge n everything connected, pulled pin to simulate trailer detached..........fucker doesn't work. Since not mandatory in Ontario, both it and the wiring harness have a date with the garbage bin. In my eyes, more of a potential problem vs a legit safety item.
If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, for sure it should have a breakaway cable to the master cyl although getting length perfect to engage brakes is likely a tricky deal. Bet most don't work unless chains fail at the same time.

To me, larger safety improvement would be pushing all car trailer (or similar wt units) into using 2-5/16 higher quality hitches vs the all too common 2" you see out there.
https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...51/8251225.jpg

Looked online, ratings on cheapie 2" balls can be as low as 3500lb (some show no rating or are lower) with even decent quality ones maxing 6000 range. Now lets take an average steel trailer at say 2200lbs then dump your 3500lb ride on top (more if it's a Cobra or Shelby) and your almost maxed out on a good ball, way over on a cheap one. Same scenario but substitute a 2-5/16 hitch n ball, ratings for them generally fall in the 6-12,000lb range.
How in the hell did they let this fall through the cracks?

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Originally Posted by ZR

I'm not sure what problem they are trying to solve with a breakaway system on top of electric brakes. If your properly hooked up, chains are to correct length and crossed, cord is correct length plug is properly in it's socket (8way plug has a retainer nub on the door that helps hold plug in place), even if the ball was to somehow fail, trailer would stay plugged in meaning it still has brakes controlled by the truck. Not sure about other trucks, Ram factory controller in my truck is even smart enough to know if trailer is plugged in and there is a connection issue with the brakes. Confirmed it last night by pushing plug in just far enough to bring lights on by not far enough to make full connection, warning for no trailer brakes came up n the dash, push plug rest of the way in and it goes out.
As for the breakaway system, battery is up on charge n everything connected, pulled pin to simulate trailer detached..........fucker doesn't work. Since not mandatory in Ontario, both it and the wiring harness have a date with the garbage bin. In my eyes, more of a potential problem vs a legit safety item.
If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, for sure it should have a breakaway cable to the master cyl although getting length perfect to engage brakes is likely a tricky deal. Bet most don't work unless chains fail at the same time.

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essentially its 12 volt battery - so it may charge when you use it...? I cant remember it's been about 15years since I worked on one...

Yes 12v battery charged via the lighting circuit.
In my case, cable / pull out switch itself doesn't work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ZR

Wish I knew more about wt distribution hitches, can anyone chime in?
Perhaps more of us should be using them, not sure.
Talked to a couple of trailer shops about them but came away feeling I was getting more of a salesman's pitch vs real world advice.

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I grabbed this one when it was on sale a couple weeks ago. Haven't installed it yet so no review just yet. I can tell you the part itself is heavy AF, it must weight 200 lbs just the hitch.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p8371593e

When I was Florida, the guys at 5 star tuning were telling me as well about an alternative to airbags in the back of the truck. They said there is an over top of your leaf spring style system for about $300 U.S. that works better not only for towing but also general handling of the truck. I forget the name I will txt him in a while and find out.

He also touched up my tune so coming back from Florida I used about 15% less gas.

Best tip so far about owning a trailer is making sure you have a lot of wood around. large blocks, 1x9 and 2x4. Helps when loading and off loading cars and if you prop the back end of the trailer up, you can load and unload the car without having to have it hitched to the truck all the time.

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Originally Posted by Darkhorse

I grabbed this one when it was on sale a couple weeks ago. Haven't installed it yet so no review just yet. I can tell you the part itself is heavy AF, it must weight 200 lbs just the hitch.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p8371593e

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Really interested to hear your review.

ZR you going to go with regular straps or wheel nets?

Torn between single strap over the tire or net style with e track.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SX425_.jpg

This set up would be awesome, puts ratchet far enough away from fender to prevent accidental damage plus quick n easy to use.

That’s a slick set up. No more crawling under the car.