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Please keep the posts in here to tech articles, diagrams, how to's etc.
If everyone was to post similar to whats below, easy for others to spot what they'er looking for.
Tulowd posted up this link up
FOX BODY VAC AND WIRING DIAGRAMS
http://home.comcast.net/~smithmonte/...stang_EVTM.htm
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12VGuy posted this one / password is DIAGRAMS
http://s562.photobucket.com/user/the...ing%20diagrams
I have the Mustang Illustrated Parts Catalog from 1980 thru 1995, shows pics of every part and where it is and associated parts that go with them, part # etc, will loan FREE to any club member for reference etc.
1980-1995 FORD MUSTANG ILLUSTRATED PARTS CATALOG
The book is Licensed by Ford.
Covers all engines, not just V8's.
Good for both the novice and the expert when it comes to knowing your Late-Model Mustang! No other book better illustrates how things go together. This Fat spiral bound 321 page book features exploded views of virtually every system and subsystem in the car, and all the parts are labeled with Ford base part numbers and diagrams. Also this manual covers interior (dash, door panels, consoles and more), exterior, and also the mechanical and wiring systems. One book covers everything in the car.
Not "Articles" per se, but great resources.
Here is a link to the MustangForums.com Official Mustang Suspension Guide ... something I always seem to be going back to as a resource:
http://mustangforums.com/forum/suspe...ion-guide.html
And the HDRMedia Mustang Suspension Basics webpages:
http://www.hdrmedia.com/Mustang/t_suspension.htm
The HDRMedia Coli Spring Tech with the spring rates for most common spring selections:
http://www.hdrmedia.com/Mustang/springs_calcs.htm
for the SN95 guys .....TMoss wiring diagrams:
94 & 95 Mustang Electrical and Vacuum diagrams.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...#95-95Diagrams
Thanks a bunch, GL. Will get it back to you asap!!Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOOTANG
Any chance in getting that scanned and uploaded? How many pages is it?Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOOTANG
Lots ^ The book is presently on its way up to Timmins but when it is returned you can make a copy, but it is a large book ,sorry have no way to scan that many pages etc, but as I said it is free to anyone that want to use it.
In the mail Mike, should be there with the week, GL>Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruter
:clap2::ty:
I have the book back now & Mike AKA Bruter was good enough to put it on a CD also , so I now have it both ways ! ,
FORD 4.6L DOHC REFILL/BURP PROCEDURE
This procedure is based on a collaboration of information from the forums, the Ford TSB and personal experience. I’ve only included what I feel is relevant in order to refill the system properly as quickly as possible. The general concept here is that air will accumulate at the highest point in the system which is the crossover tube. 1) Car must be parked level or on a slight incline with the front higher is even better.
2) Remove the radiator reservoir cap and crossover plug.
http://www.reischeperformance.com/Images/plug.jpg
5) With the reservoir capped, continue adding coolant at the funnel until the funnel fills up an inch or two. Squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to force air pockets out of the piping.
6) Start the engine and let it idle but occasionally rev the engine a bit to dislodge any trapped air. Add coolant to keep the funnel full if necessary. You will notice many large air pockets escaping at first but eventually the level will rise in the funnel as temperature goes up expanding the coolant. Keep the engine running just until the thermostat starts to open a bit. (About 170-172° with our thermostat) When this happens the upper radiator inlet will be warm to the touch. (It is normal for tiny air bubbles to still be escaping out of the funnel- this happens because the system is open and unpressurized.)
7) Shut off the engine but be ready to add coolant because the level in the funnel will drop as soon as you do so. Quickly unscrew and remove the funnel, top off the coolant and reinstall the crossover plug only snug. (This is done to keep coolant from being expelled because stagnant coolant in the engine becomes heated and starts expanding again) A common mistake is to run the engine too long which creates excessive heat and, instead of dropping, the coolant level rises in the funnel when the engine is shut off. If this happens just reinstall the plug quickly to minimize coolant loss.
8) After 40 min to an hour the engine will still be warm. Slowly remove the crossover plug but use caution because there may still be a little pressure in the system. Top off the coolant again but this time do not reinstall the plug.
9) After 3 to 5 more hours the engine will be completely cooled down and you will need to top off the crossover once more. Reinstall the crossover plug then verify that the reservoir is full. DO NOT OPEN THE RESERVOIR CAP WITH THE CROSSOVER PLUG REMOVED.
10) You may drive the vehicle normally. Make sure the engine reaches full operating temperature. Best to do some highway cruising and/or the engine should see some mid-rpm speeds at minimum.
11) Later or the next day when the vehicle is completely cold again: Do not start the car and do not open the reservoir. Just top off the coolant at the crossover again. If you have to add more than an ounce or two of coolant then repeat this step again after another heat cycle. (For those who want to get every bit of air out you can repeat this step a few times until you can add only a capful of coolant.)
POPULAR RIM WEIGHTS
Here is the info:
95 COBRA R Replica
95 Cobra R (Black) 17x9 - 28lbs
AFS 95 Cobra R (Chrome) 17x9 - 24lbs
AFS 95 Cobra R (Chrome) 17x10.5 - 26lbs
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Y2K COBRA R Replica
Y2K Cobra R Replica (Silver) 18x9 - 28lbs
Y2K Cobra R (Chrome) 18x9.5 - 29lbs
Y2K Cobra R (Powerder Coated) 18x9.5 - 27lbs
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03 COBRA Replica
AFS 03 Cobras (Chrome) 17x9 - 29lbs
AFS 03 Cobras (Chrome) 17x10 - 27lbs
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BULLITTS Replica
Bullitt (Chrome) 18x9 - 29lbs
Bullitt (Chrome) 18x10 - 30lbs
Bullitt (Chrome) 20x8.5 - 30lbs
Bullitt (Chrome) (2005+) 18x10 - 29lbs
Bullitt (Anthracite) 20x8.5 - 30lbs
Bullitt (Anthracite) (2005+) 17x9 - 25lbs
Bullitt (Anthracite) 18x9 - 28lbs
Bullitt (Black) 18x9 - 28lbs
Bullitt (Black) 18x10 - 29lbs
Bullitt satin 17x8 - 28lbs
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FR500 Replica
FR500 (Chrome) 17x9 - 27lbs
FR500 (Chrome) 18x9 - 31lbs
FR500 (Chrome) 18x10 - 32lbs
FR500 (Black) 18x9 - 31lbs
FR500 (Black) 18x10 - 32lbs
FR500 (Anthracite) 18x9 - 31lbs
FR500 (Anthracite) 18x10 - 32lbs
FR500 (Satin) 18x9 - 26lbs
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SALEEN Replica
Saleen (White) 18x9 - 31lbs
Saleen (Chrome) 18x9 - 32lbs
Saleen (Black) 18x9 - 31lbs
Saleen (Black) 18x10 - 34lbs
Saleen (Hypercoated) 18x9 - 31lbs
Saleen (Hypercoated) 18x10 - 34lbs
Saleen (Hypercoated) (2005+) 18x9 - 29lbs
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STEEDA
Steeda Ultralights (Satin) 17x9 - 21.5lbs
Steeda Ultralights (Chrome) 17x9 - 24lbs
Steeda Ultralights (Satin) 18x9 - 22lbs
Steeda Ultralights (Chrome) 18x9 - 24.5lbs
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FORD OEM, FORD MOTORSPORTS, OR SVT (pretty much the same)
SVT - Bullitt (Silver) 17x8 = 23lbs
SVT - Bullitt (Chrome) 17x8 = 24lbs
SVT - Bullitt (Black) 17x8 = 22lbs
SVT - Bullitt (Anthracite) 17x8 = 22lbs
SVT - 97 Cobra (Chrome) 17x8 = 22.5lbs
SVT - 98 Cobra (Silver) 17x8 = 21.5lbs
SVT - 99 Cobra (Silver) 17x8 = 22.5lbs
SVT - 99 Cobra (Polished) 17x8 = 22.5lbs
SVT - 04 Cobra 10th Anniversary (Light Grey) 17x9 = 23.8lbs
SVT - 03 Cobra (Satin) 17x9 - 25.5lbs
FORD OEM - 99 GT (Satin) 17x8 - 22lbs
FORD OEM - 03 Mach 1 - 25lbs
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Shelby Wheels
Torq-Thrust M (Chrome) 17x8 = 21.5lbs
Torq-Thrust M (Chrome) 17x9 = 23.5lbs
Torq-Thrust M (Black) 17x8 = 21lbs
Torq-Thrust M (Black) 17x9 = 22.6lbs
Torq-Thrust M (Anthracite) 17x8 = 21lbs
Torq-Thrust M (Anthracite) 17x9 = 22.6lbs
Razor 5 (Light Grey w/ Mach. Lip) 18x9 = 25.8lbs
Razor 20x10 = 30.4 lbs
Razor 20x9 with 255 Nitto's mounted - 57.6 lbs
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BBS Wheels
BBS RGR (Silver w/ Mach. Lip) 18x8.5 = 20lbs
BBS RGR (Silver w/ Mach. Lip) 18x9.5 = 20.3lbs
BBS RK (Plasma) 18x8.5 - 19lbs
BBS RK (Plasma) 18X10 - 20lbs
BBS RK (Silver) 18x8.5 - 19lbs
BBS RK (Silver) 18X10 - 20lbs
BBS RS-GT (Diamond Black Mach. Lip) 18x8.5 = 20.5lbs
BBS RX (Bright Silver) 18x8 = 23.6lbs
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LIGHTWEIGHT RACE WHEELS
Weld Draglites 15x3.5 - 7lbs
Weld Draglites 15x10 - 14lbs
Weld Pro-Stars 15x3.5 - 8lbs
Weld Pro-Stars 15x8 - 12lbs
Bogart Drag-On Fly Star 15x3.5 - 9lbs
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OTHER
Kazera kza/asa 18X8.5 - 23lbs
Kazera kza/asa 18X9.5 - 25lbs
Konig Villain 17x9 - 21lbs
Konig Maxxim 18x8.5 - 24.5lbs
Mille Miglia MM11-2 18x9 - 25lbs
Motegi Track Touge (Anthracite) 17x9 = 24lbs
Motegi Track Touge (Anthracite) 18x9 = 25.5lbs
Motegi Track Touge (Anthracite) 18x10 = 27.8lbs
Motegi Track Touge (Black) 17x9 = 24lbs
Motegi Track Touge (Black) 18x9 = 25.5lbs
Motegi MR116 18x9 - 25.2 lbs (total with Hoosier 275 tires = 48.0 lbs)
Motegi Track Touge (Black) 18x10 = 28lbs
Motegi Track Touge (Chrome) 18x10 = 30lbs
SSR GT-3 (Bright Satin) 18x9 = 24.7lbs
SSR GT-3 (Bright Satin) 18x9.5 = 25.6lbs
GT-3 (Bright Satin) 18x10.5 = 26.5lbs
SSR Integral 18x8 - 19.5lbs
SSR Integral 18x9 - 20lbs
JUNK YARD PARTS
From alts to brake conversion to what electric fans will bolt up...........tons of info here.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...ml#post8499013
ENKEI RPF1 17" race wheels (suitable for street - watch out for pot holes, no curb hopping at the road course either)
17x9 15.9 lbs
17x9.5 16.0 lbs
17x10 17.0 lbs
The 18s they make aren't was wide for our bolt pattern - I think 8" is the max, so I didn't list them.
Lightest wheels out there for Foxes w/ 5 lug conversions or SN95 I've seen. Used by most competitors in all American Iron and Camaro/Mustang challenge classes. About $ 400/wheel incl centre cap here in Canada.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...ll&sort=Weight
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
COBRA CALIPER BANJO BOLTS.
cobra fronts from 1994 to 2002 are 10mmx1.0
all cobra fronts 2003-2004 are 10mmx1.5
all rear cobras 1994-2004 are 10mmx1.5
'96 up GT / Cobra oil cooler O ring kits. Impossible to find anywhere else, Ford sells complete new units only, no parts. Be sure to buy kit + extended service kit and do it properly the first time. Tell tale signs you have a problem, most common is an external oil leak. Address it now before you start sucking cooling into your oil.
http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...4e15e29e260b9d
http://www.speedconcepts.net/images/...ler_Kit_04.jpg
Wiring Article: How to's and Don'ts !!
http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/...ing-a-racecar/
Very good article; for most of us, soldering and heat shrinking is fine, but some other very good tips on layout and concepts - great for audio and ECM wiring/ even just for tucking and hiding harnesses.
Aerodynamics Explained:
http://www.carthrottle.com/post/engi...-of-race-cars/
Hawk Brake Pad Compound Comparison Chart:
http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/...psab6dd3cb.jpg
A real N/A engine build: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additio...eet-race-mill/
How to set track tire pressure and read tire temperatures
http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/...for-the-track/
For the snail / turbo boys and girls from the Buick GN 231 Turbo crowd: don't forget to change the values in the spread sheets for V8, injector sizing etc
Imagine some of the data like temp increases etc would be relevant to blower cars too.
Excel Spreadsheet to download at the bottom of the linked page.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html
Stepped 3/8 to 5/16 header studs
http://www.rbssuperchargers.com/Products.cfm?pID=6669
http://www.rbssuperchargers.com/imag...ERSTUDSTEP.JPG
For the drag race crowd or just understanding 4 link rear suspensions:
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html
Reading spark plugs; there are a bunch of decent sites around, here is one I saw last year:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html
Setting up 4 link and ladder bar drag suspensions:
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/0...ension-system/
1988 ELECTRICAL & VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
http://home.comcast.net/~smithmonte/Auto/1988_Mustang_EVTM.htm
AUTOZONE REPAIR GUIDE.
http://www.autozone.com/
ANOTHER GREAT RESOURCE
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#EEC
DIY Alignment
Lots of ppl do their own, especially at the track. Different settings needed for street and track; keep in mind whenever you change one spec/setting it usually affects others...this includes ride height, changing spindles, etc. Max caster is the target - once it's past 5* or so, you typically end up with camber gain as opposed to camber loss in the corners, for more grip. Also makes the car track straighter, especially at higher speeds.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/gene...installed.html
Mirror replacement ! cut and fit any mirror etc,
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-body-par...ationFlag=true