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I have an 88GT manual.
It goes in gear solid, no slop, but takes a lot of effort. Grinds between 1st and 2nd when it’s cold. And grinds or doesn’t go at all into Reverse. I’m thinking it’s the synchros. Clutch and clutch cable are new.
I’m not sure if it needs a complete rebuild (or even what that includes) or just new synchros.
Where is recommended to do this and what kind of cost am I looking at?
TDS Transmission in Newmarket
Believe it or not Mr Transmission from my experience does great work for decent price. I use the one on highway 7 and pine valley in Woodbridge.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_owing
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Call John Goodman at TDS and you'll be more than fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw
TDS also gets my vote. Those guys do great work.
I think John has been doing T5’s since J&P day’s when he was in Scarborough, I think Technique was the shop .
Another vote for John at TDS....he recently overhauled my trany for my fox body.
thanks for all the responses.Quote:
Originally Posted by WidowrRacing
Widowr - was it a T5? You mind telling me what it cost?
Spoke to tds, very nice conversation. However, to do 2nd and 3rd synchros and bearings is apparently around $900. The parts have jumped in price a lot they said. Not sure I want to invest that much into only those parts in an old transmission. Back to the drawing board.
Grind when cold......
-what fluid are you running?
-sure clutch is adjusted correctly or using auto adjuster?
-tough into rev, dropping into a forward gear first?
-Mercon 5Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
-MM adjustable clutch cable I've played with the adjustment to get it just right
-I remembered after I wrote that that rev doesn't have synchro
anyone know T5 specialties in London? Sells rebuilt t5s
How are you adjusting it?
Synchros last me 3 years, I keep extra set sitting on shelf....7000rpm shifts and low gears in rear don't help.
Firewall adjuster. I followed the specs from Maximum motorsports. Though they say “8lbs of force should move the pedal 1/2 inch” it’s hard to judge when my leg is pushing exactly 8lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
At the firewall adjuster, pulled the cable with your hand forward / away from the adjuster, should have approx a loonie width of gap between flat on the cable and adjuster. Never ever ever go any tighter, hair looser is fine so long as your able to properly shift.
Did you replace the stock plastic clutch quadrant?
I don’t know if this Info helps but I just seen on American muscle you can get a new T5 that’s built better from factor for 2200$ not sure if this is good or not
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TDS transmission in newmarket might help
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Edit : Didnt read above comments nevermind !
Right. Just to clarify, when you (and MM) say tighter, that means unscrewing the adjuster (counterclockwise)?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by LX89
Yes, it makes me want to buy an entire brand new transmission. The price you saw is, however, in USD and would probably have an expensive truck freight delivery charge even if I were to ship it to the border and pick it up myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zutz2v
Did you try to adjust as I suggested?
Get a number in every season where adjustment is out to lunch.
My sister does logistics I could ask her about freight for youQuote:
Originally Posted by m_owing
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Widowr - was it a T5? You mind telling me what it cost?[/QUOTE]
No it was a Tremec 3550 and it was upgraded with a lot of new parts to strengthen it.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But with the current dollar I gotta save my pennies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zutz2v
Yes I was just about a “loonie thickness” as you said. Again, when you say tighter you mean a gap smaller than a loonie thickness? And looser would be more that a loonie?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
Yes tighter means less than a loonie thickness.
With the transmission in gear and clutch pedal on the floor approximately how much should the clutch pedal come up before the clutch starts to engage?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
IMO, between 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up is ideal.