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Thread: Now I’m pissed

  1. #1
    Member 1986stangfan's Avatar
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    Now I’m pissed

    Have to tear my engine all the way back down. Just decided to re-read the toque specs for everything and realized that the way the head bolt torque specs were written confused me and I made an error. Problem is that I used rtv under the heads of the bolts that go into the water jackets and now it is cured necessitating the removal if he intake, heads etc. New gaskets new head bolts. Time to burn the car to the ground I think


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  2. #2
    Member Minaccia's Avatar
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    Sucks but that's how projects go some times but best part is you found out earlier rather than later were it would of cost you more ca$h.
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  3. #3
    Super Moderator Stephen06GT's Avatar
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    What Lou said.^^

  4. #4
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Water jackets are only in the lower holes, not sure why you need to remove the intake, or heads for that matter. If it was me I’d take the bolts out one by one, clean them and apply new sealant, torque to spec and be done, just need to remove valve covers and plenum. Also, you don’t need rtv under the bolt heads, just on the threads, and only the lower ones, and for that matter, you should be using Teflon, not rtv

  5. #5
    Member 1986stangfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyryd View Post
    Water jackets are only in the lower holes, not sure why you need to remove the intake, or heads for that matter. If it was me I’d take the bolts out one by one, clean them and apply new sealant, torque to spec and be done, just need to remove valve covers and plenum. Also, you don’t need rtv under the bolt heads, just on the threads, and only the lower ones, and for that matter, you should be using Teflon, not rtv
    I used arp thread sealer on the bolt bread and rtv under the heads of the bolts, it was recommended by someone.


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  6. #6
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Okay well maybe he knows something I don’t, but I’ll tell you that there should never be coolant at the bolt head if the threads are sealed.
    Now, if you used thread sealer it should still be pliable, so you can very likely just do the correct torque (unless you’re loosening the bolts) without pulling the bolts at all, but that depends on the sealer, if you still have some, put a thin layer on a piece of paper or something and see if it dries, Teflon takes a while to dry so it really depends what it was.

  7. #7
    Member 1986stangfan's Avatar
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    Turns out I’m a bigger moron that anyone could have imagined. As it turns out everything was torque correctly, my memory failed me as to what I had done. Thankfully my dad was there when I installed the heads and he reminded me and then I double checked the torque. Crisis averted


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  8. #8
    Super Moderator newbiestangowner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1986stangfan View Post
    Turns out I’m a bigger moron that anyone could have imagined. As it turns out everything was torque correctly, my memory failed me as to what I had done. Thankfully my dad was there when I installed the heads and he reminded me and then I double checked the torque. Crisis averted


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    U started to “doubt” yourself huh??
    We’ve all been there. Glad it worked out, but are you two sure ?? Lol



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  9. #9
    Super Moderator Scrape's Avatar
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    Crisis averted. That has happened to me in the past. Your OCD is strong sir.

  10. #10
    stangstevers
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    Never heard of RTV under the bolt heads before... That sounds like hogwash, don't pay too much attention to future "tips" from that person (imo)... I think the normal procedure is thread sealer for the bottom bolts but before doing that, cleaning the threads (in the block) is a good idea. Torque it down using the pattern and I think it's a 2 or 3 step process.

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