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Thread: GT350 High Oil Consumption

  1. #11
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrape View Post
    My SRT Challenger required 0W40 and my current Q50 Red Sport requires 0W20! I said no way I will use that shit. 5W40 Motul 8100 XCess all the way. Changing the oil ever 8-10 k max.
    its a tough call - oil talk is like mod talk (get a million responses) - with engineering tolerance and pressure for fuel economy it really has everyone thinking about oil - not like the old days when you just added 20w50 to an old engine - warranty to consider too - I had the oil pan off a 2ltr Dai Woo engine recently and was surprised to see a windage tray...lol (likely for fuel economy and a bit more power) fuel economy is part of the reason the paint jobs are so poor... thinner and thinner. Going too thick with oil could pose problems on todays engines so you really have to be careful. Thick could possible damage oil pump or maybe incase pressure causing leaks - the Dae Woo I just mention has an external oil pump - had a bad gasket leak on the pump ( I assume pressure) I don't know the history of the car tho but had low km. Frequent changes are better - in that 350 gt oil leak thread, I would think with an engine like that you may want to do more frequent oil changes (race car mindset)

  2. #12
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    Something to keep an eye out on then , suks

  3. #13
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Actually, it's closer to the good old days vs what peeps are being led to believe.
    You'd also be surprised how many here (2v / 3v / 4v / coyote) have ditched the suggested oil grade / service interval only to see excessive oil caught by the catch can + high consumption either greatly reduced or disappear all together.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    Pulling off the track during Mustang at Mosport behind one, noticed the mosquito killer smoke out the back. Been out with two owners, for some reason they were both under the impression it's ok to let the engine spin at huge RPM even at lower speeds because of it's max RPM on the tach. Combine that with the factory 5w oil and no it's not a surprise they are having issues.
    From what I understood, the early 2016's had oil cooler line leak issues develop, which I believe took down at least 1 of those GT350's during the Mustangs @ Mosport day. Ford came out with a TSB on that one. However, the thread I posted is more about internal engine oil consumption issues, which I'm sure Ford has identified the culprit, but isn't letting on? Too many failures for them not to know. Would have thought the 5W-50 in these cars would be sufficient....

  5. #15
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    If I'm running a high end sports car, I'm sticking with the manufacturer suggested oil weight....until at least the warranty period on the drive train is over.

  6. #16
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Yes recall one cooler line let go one, talking about blue out the tail pipe when back off track and headed to the pits.
    To me, a 10w40 would make more sense + given the rpm they see, cut intervals back dramatically.

  7. #17
    Member Ontariomystic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammerhead View Post
    soon if not already will see cars with 0w.... oil
    Maybe I got this wrong. 0w, 5w, 10w all refers to the cold properties of the oil. Is it not the 20, 30, 40 number that determines its thickness? So 0w-20 or 5w-20 are basically the same where 0w-40 or 5w-40 would be much thicker and less prone to oil consumption.

    Clarify if I'm wrong.
    Doing my part to boost the economy

  8. #18
    Why so serious Hotford's Avatar
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    No one will be looking at the GT350 once the GT500 is released.
    2003 Azure Mach 1.....with some bolt on's.....
    2003 Marauder.....with some bolt on's....
    2011 GT500......with some bolt on's.......
    82 GT, Coyote, build in play.......

  9. #19
    nom nom nom RedSN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ontariomystic View Post
    So 0w-20 or 5w-20 are basically the same where 0w-40 or 5w-40 would be much thicker and less prone to oil consumption.
    To make a multi-grade oil, you take a single grade oil and add special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIIs.
    For example: a 10W30 starts off with a base SAE10 grade oil. The VIIs make it perform like a SAE30 grade oil at temperature.



    Problem is when those VIIs break down, your multi-grade oil behaves as a single grade oil. In the case of a 5W oil it will behave as SAE5 at temperature.



    VIIs explained:
    Viscosity modifiers are polymeric molecules that are sensitive to temperature. At low temperatures, the molecule chain contracts and does not impact the fluid viscosity. At high temperatures, the chain relaxes and an increase in viscosity occurs.

    There are two ways to explain the characteristics of these polymer chains. The first is to compare the polymers to people. When a person is cold, his natural reaction is to hold his arms close to his body to retain warmth. Now imagine a crowd of cold people, arms drawn in, moving past one another in a congested hallway. Sure there is some congestion, but the people can still move freely.

    Now imagine the opposite. When a person is hot, he tends to sprawl out. Picture a person holding his arms straight out from his sides. It would be much more difficult to navigate a congested hallway full of hot people, arms extended. Consider in this example, the flow of people is related to the viscosity of the crowd.
    To summarize: 0W and 5W manufacturer recommended oils are to meet CAFE standards and have nothing to do with "tighter engine" tolerances, etc.
    -Don____________

  10. #20
    Member Ontariomystic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedSN View Post
    To make a multi-grade oil, you take a single grade oil and add special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIIs.
    For example: a 10W30 starts off with a base SAE10 grade oil. The VIIs make it perform like a SAE30 grade oil at temperature.



    Problem is when those VIIs break down, your multi-grade oil behaves as a single grade oil. In the case of a 5W oil it will behave as SAE5 at temperature.



    VIIs explained:


    To summarize: 0W and 5W manufacturer recommended oils are to meet CAFE standards and have nothing to do with "tighter engine" tolerances, etc.
    I get all that, so doesn't the VII's breakdown process take a long time with all these high end synthetics? Where does the issue come from? lack of oil changes?
    Doing my part to boost the economy

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