Ford Officially Calls 5.0L Coyote Ticking Sound a Normal Characteristic

[Ponyryd]

That’s pretty poor spelling and punctuation for an official Ford dicument

[Darkhorse]

Send it.

[Scrape]

I am sure someone copied it onto Mustang 6g so errors are going to be there.

[Ponyryd]

I am sure someone copied it onto Mustang 6g so errors are going to be there.

Ha, it happens....clearly as my post complaining about their spelling shows

[SPEED]

Put some 5/30 in instead of that energy saving water 5/20

[Mellow Yellow]

Put some 5/30 in instead of that energy saving water 5/20

I don't know....I put 5-30 in my 2005 3v shortly after I bought it and the cam phasers start to sound like they were coming out of the engine. There are a lot of plastic parts in there that may not be able to handle the pressure. Went back to 5-20 and everything settled down to "normal"

[hammerhead]

I don't know....I put 5-30 in my 2005 3v shortly after I bought it and the cam phasers start to sound like they were coming out of the engine. There are a lot of plastic parts in there that may not be able to handle the pressure. Went back to 5-20 and everything settled down to "normal"

I have to agree with you on this - since I purchased my s550 three months ago I've done a lot if reading on oil - enough to turn me off ketchup and things of the like, but that's another story - in everything I read lead me to believe that 5w20 was probably the best choice for today's average engine - 0w20 seemed to be that next best but would break down sooner - I believe. API stands for minimum standards so I wouldn't go cheap and would stick to full synthetic. Saying all this it's not what I will be using lol because I don't think the coyote or anything pushing 350 HP or more and boosted are average grocery getter engines. When I change my oil I'm going to send sample out the see what was actually in there from the factory assuming the car has the original oil as it had 5ooo on it when I purchased it.

[newbiestangowner]

I have to agree with you on this - since I purchased my s550 three months ago I've done a lot if reading on oil - enough to turn me off ketchup and things of the like, but that's another story - in everything I read lead me to believe that 5w20 was probably the best choice for today's average engine - 0w20 seemed to be that next best but would break down sooner - I believe. API stands for minimum standards so I wouldn't go cheap and would stick to full synthetic. Saying all this it's not what I will be using lol because I don't think the coyote or anything pushing 350 HP or more and boosted are average grocery getter engines. When I change my oil I'm going to send sample out the see what was actually in there from the factory assuming the car has the original oil as it had 5ooo on it when I purchased it.

You worry too much . At least your s550 will be well looked after oil wise lol. Mine always received the standard oil with regular intervals, and it’s a grocery getter, vacation transport, Home Depot delivery truck, track car, occasional “race car in Mexico” with high kms- the motor hasn’t blown up yet ( knock on wood) - tick or no tick


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[hammerhead]

Lol my seat folds down so you might see a few 2x4's sticking out occasionally - ur right tho I do worry about it - I think ketchup might be good additive but I'm not trying that

[Gr8Stang]

I have to agree with you on this - since I purchased my s550 three months ago I've done a lot if reading on oil - enough to turn me off ketchup and things of the like, but that's another story - in everything I read lead me to believe that 5w20 was probably the best choice for today's average engine - 0w20 seemed to be that next best but would break down sooner - I believe. API stands for minimum standards so I wouldn't go cheap and would stick to full synthetic. Saying all this it's not what I will be using lol because I don't think the coyote or anything pushing 350 HP or more and boosted are average grocery getter engines. When I change my oil I'm going to send sample out the see what was actually in there from the factory assuming the car has the original oil as it had 5ooo on it when I purchased it.

I used blackstone labs a few times and think it's worth it to find out: 1. General condition of the motor internals, i.e. wear metal levels, 2. How the oil itself is holding up at time of change, i.e. shear and viscosity.

Cheap insurance IMO.