Been working in the trucking industry for over twenty years (starting to sound like a driver now, "don't tell me how to drive I've been doin this for twenty years....lol) but I've seen many ten hole 22" and 24" wheels come off - hub faces are important - wheels with pitted and less then smooth hub faces have far less clamping force at 500 ft. pounds - the wheels on this little dodge where interesting to me- although I didn't get to remove it only a small area of the wheels hub face around the stud hole was making contact with the hub or drum - when a wheel gets lose like this the damage is severe and it is hard to determine the cause. What was interesting to me was it was put on in February so it was quite some time before it came lose - usually if a wheel is installed incorrectly it will come off within a hundred miles of leaving the shop - in the trucking industry tire installers always put on the bill to "retorque" after 100k - it is sort of installer protection. Also important to ten hole wheels is the torques sequence and reaching the 500pound wheel torque for a ten hole hub pilot wheel on a truck. (a range is given for the torque spec. 500 is a good guide line) Also lubing the nuts as mention does increase the torque spec by a substantial margin - I'm not sure using a lower torques spec would be a good idea on a wet nut and stud - if the lube runs out over time from the threads and the stud and nut are now dry they may be now lose (just my thinking) - It's also interesting with old motorcycle's with ten hole chain sprockets - a lot of people will use lock tite to hold the sprocket to the hub because of bad experiences - I've always used the same torque sequence used on a ten hole 22" wheel and never had an issue (just a thought) my brain feels alive today....lol day dreamer ok back to work!