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Thread: Wheel torque.

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  1. #1
    Member Mellow Yellow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
    Was changing the winters to summers on the Fusion Saturday. It has those decorative lug nuts with the thin metal covering, Well at least one of the coverings were rounded or not capable of having a socket properly fit. Had to get it off with an air chisel. Part of the reason was over torquing; last time I had the summer to winter changeover done by the dealer. I wound up buying new log nuts.


    One time we were going to work on my sons brakes, I had to use a six foot section of pipe to break the lugs loose on a Cobalt! Would never have been able to change a tire on the road.


    BTW how do you know what the recommended torque is. I assume different from Mustang to Fusion to F150
    So fast forward to yesterday. The Fusion went in for some brake and suspension work a few months ago. Of course, the wheels needed to be removed and replaced.

    FUCK I'm sore. Every fucking lug nut needed a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen them!!! Then (not their fault, unless there is an anti seize available) three of the rims need a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (5lb) to get them to come off........oh did I mention my air compressor decided to give up the ghost after one change.

    I'm getting too old for this shit.

    Rant over

  2. #2
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
    So fast forward to yesterday. The Fusion went in for some brake and suspension work a few months ago. Of course, the wheels needed to be removed and replaced.

    FUCK I'm sore. Every fucking lug nut needed a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen them!!! Then (not their fault, unless there is an anti seize available) three of the rims need a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (5lb) to get them to come off........oh did I mention my air compressor decided to give up the ghost after one change.

    I'm getting too old for this shit.

    Rant over
    I don’t use anti-seize, especially on lugs, but on everything I have the wheels off of (that sees winter use), I spray the hub with fluid film, any I’ve seen come back always come right off with minimal effort.

  3. #3
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
    So fast forward to yesterday. The Fusion went in for some brake and suspension work a few months ago. Of course, the wheels needed to be removed and replaced.

    FUCK I'm sore. Every fucking lug nut needed a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen them!!! Then (not their fault, unless there is an anti seize available) three of the rims need a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (5lb) to get them to come off........oh did I mention my air compressor decided to give up the ghost after one change.

    I'm getting too old for this shit.

    Rant over
    Both are 100% their fault. When off, both hubs and backside of the rims should be cleaned and smeared with never seize. We have a dedicated angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel for exactly that kinda stuff, if it won't reach, assortment of small wire wheels and sanding drums for the drill or by hand with a wire brush.

  4. #4
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    On a 1/2" stud, 90 - 95lbs.
    If your going to the track, suggest only rechecking after the wheels have cooled down, never smokin hot.
    Tin covered wheel nuts, bane of mine and everyone else that works on vehicles existence. Moisture / salt gets under the cover and rusts the steel nut underneath which in turn expands the cover either splitting it or making it impossible to get a socket on properly.

  5. #5
    Die Winter Die Snaketamer's Avatar
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    So this guys article recommends 25% lest torque on lugs/studs with anti-seize(my F150 req'd 150ft/bls would be 115ft/lbs?)....should I loosen them?
    I hate those tin covered lugs also...only reason I haven't changed then on the truck is because I use breaker bar/torque wrench(no impact) and don't run them in the winter. My son's G6 lugs gave me fits....

  6. #6
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snaketamer View Post
    So this guys article recommends 25% lest torque on lugs/studs with anti-seize(my F150 req'd 150ft/bls would be 115ft/lbs?)....should I loosen them?
    I hate those tin covered lugs also...only reason I haven't changed then on the truck is because I use breaker bar/torque wrench(no impact) and don't run them in the winter. My son's G6 lugs gave me fits....
    Yes have that with some of the kid cars - they would break them off inexperience and power tools lol I find too the metal isn't what it use to be - I have a hell of a time with the original fasters on my daughters 9 year old Santa Fa - not just wheel nuts all fasteners related to the drive line and exposure to the elements from wheel nuts to bearing fasteners related licenses On my old cars some as old as forty years fasteners come off no problem with very little rust and corrosion.
    1979 Pace Car 302 4spd
    1981 Cobra t-top option - power to be determined, in the works

  7. #7
    Club Supporter mavrrrick's Avatar
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    Or just google it.

  8. #8
    True Blue GT Styrofoam04's Avatar
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    Copper anti seize...huh, now I know.

    I've never had an issue removing rims before, but since buying this SUV off a coworker ... every year I have troubles.
    Its not as bad as it was when I first got it 3 seasons ago. but its still a bit of effort.

    So He had 2 sets of tires and rims. He had the winter tires on steelies on the SUV. I didn't think of it at the time I bought it, but looking back he prolly had those steelies on for a few seasons.

    I take her home and I try to switch the rims but all 4 steel rims are rusted solid to the hub! The lug nuts came off normally. but no matter what I did the wheel would not come off! I tried tugging, kicking, and pleading with it...
    I tried banging it with any I could think of.. nothing
    Then torqued it and tried the next one , and the next... they just would not come off!

    After a call to my father, he told me to jack it up and losen the lugs aboot 2-4mm then lower the jack. The weight should cause it to "pop" lose... nope!
    I tried it twice...nope!!
    I tried jumping in and turing the wheel back and forth... Nope!!!
    I tried swearing and banging my head on the steering wheel... Nope!!!

    Then I said Fuck it!!! I turned the ignition and pulled out of the driveway. I got around the corner and "pop"

    I had to do each one like that.

    I wire brushed as much as I could but I wasn't sure what I could put on it, so I carefully put on some white grease.
    They still get stuck but a bang or two usually pops them off.

    I will have to pick up some of that magic elixir you call anti seize

    Cheers
    Joel,

  9. #9
    nom nom nom RedSN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Styrofoam04 View Post
    I tried swearing and banging my head on the steering wheel... Nope!!!
    Very odd. Swearing and banging head generally works for me.
    Maybe you weren’t using enough volume?
    -Don____________

  10. #10
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Also overlooked, wash your winter wheels spotlessly clean before storing for the summer. Amazing how much they corrode / rust sitting all summer with salt on em.

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