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Thread: Wheel torque.

  1. #11
    Club Supporter Old Fart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
    BTW how do you know what the recommended torque is. I assume different from Mustang to Fusion to F150
    Owner's manual usually has the torque value.
    Mike

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  2. #12
    Club Supporter mavrrrick's Avatar
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    Or just google it.

  3. #13
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snaketamer View Post
    So this guys article recommends 25% lest torque on lugs/studs with anti-seize(my F150 req'd 150ft/bls would be 115ft/lbs?)....should I loosen them?
    I hate those tin covered lugs also...only reason I haven't changed then on the truck is because I use breaker bar/torque wrench(no impact) and don't run them in the winter. My son's G6 lugs gave me fits....
    Yes have that with some of the kid cars - they would break them off inexperience and power tools lol I find too the metal isn't what it use to be - I have a hell of a time with the original fasters on my daughters 9 year old Santa Fa - not just wheel nuts all fasteners related to the drive line and exposure to the elements from wheel nuts to bearing fasteners related licenses On my old cars some as old as forty years fasteners come off no problem with very little rust and corrosion.
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  4. #14
    True Blue GT Styrofoam04's Avatar
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    Copper anti seize...huh, now I know.

    I've never had an issue removing rims before, but since buying this SUV off a coworker ... every year I have troubles.
    Its not as bad as it was when I first got it 3 seasons ago. but its still a bit of effort.

    So He had 2 sets of tires and rims. He had the winter tires on steelies on the SUV. I didn't think of it at the time I bought it, but looking back he prolly had those steelies on for a few seasons.

    I take her home and I try to switch the rims but all 4 steel rims are rusted solid to the hub! The lug nuts came off normally. but no matter what I did the wheel would not come off! I tried tugging, kicking, and pleading with it...
    I tried banging it with any I could think of.. nothing
    Then torqued it and tried the next one , and the next... they just would not come off!

    After a call to my father, he told me to jack it up and losen the lugs aboot 2-4mm then lower the jack. The weight should cause it to "pop" lose... nope!
    I tried it twice...nope!!
    I tried jumping in and turing the wheel back and forth... Nope!!!
    I tried swearing and banging my head on the steering wheel... Nope!!!

    Then I said Fuck it!!! I turned the ignition and pulled out of the driveway. I got around the corner and "pop"

    I had to do each one like that.

    I wire brushed as much as I could but I wasn't sure what I could put on it, so I carefully put on some white grease.
    They still get stuck but a bang or two usually pops them off.

    I will have to pick up some of that magic elixir you call anti seize

    Cheers
    Joel,

  5. #15
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Also overlooked, wash your winter wheels spotlessly clean before storing for the summer. Amazing how much they corrode / rust sitting all summer with salt on em.

  6. #16
    nom nom nom RedSN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Styrofoam04 View Post
    I tried swearing and banging my head on the steering wheel... Nope!!!
    Very odd. Swearing and banging head generally works for me.
    Maybe you weren’t using enough volume?
    -Don____________
    “Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines.” - Enzo Ferrari

  7. #17
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    We are also seeing a number of cheap wheels the don't mount properly or have defects. Most common, an approx 1/8" deep by approx inch in diameter groove cut out of the backside around wheel mounting holes. Awesome when you consider how far the wheel needs to flex / bend to allow it's surface to contact the mounting face and achieve proper torque (most simply will not snug up properly). Keep in mind, these wheels are usually cast in gosh knows where to gosh knows what quality standards.


    Ive seen this as well on aftermarket wheels, and even on Ram 1500 wheels, actually I have a 16 Limited in my bay right now with the fancy wheels and it has the recesses. Never had a problem or seen it as a problem, but I agree it seems like a dumb thing to do.

    With regard to lubricating the studs-I’ll agree to disagree, but I hate anti-seize on studs, personally.

  8. #18
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    I've dealt with Kipling Tire in the past and they tighten lug nuts by hand with a torque wrench.

    When I first noticed them doing this I said to the owner,"you guys use a torque wrench"?
    He said,"yeah,what you think this is Canadian Tire",lol.

    So glad they use a torque wrench instead of blasting them on with an impact.

  9. #19
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    ^I start with a torque stick, then follow with torque wrench. Probably close to half the guys at my work don’t use a torque wrench.

  10. #20
    Club Supporter Old Fart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LX89 View Post
    I've dealt with Kipling Tire in the past and they tighten lug nuts by hand with a torque wrench.

    When I first noticed them doing this I said to the owner,"you guys use a torque wrench"?
    He said,"yeah,what you think this is Canadian Tire",lol.

    So glad they use a torque wrench instead of blasting them on with an impact.
    Funny, up here it's the Canadian Tire that used a torque wrench correctly and the Goodyear tire shop using the wrench after the impact!
    Mike

    04 GT
    89 LX...bye-bye!!
    67 Cougar x 2...should have kept them!

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