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Thread: 03 4.6 bore out to 5.0 ?

  1. #11
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Agreed, be happy as is or re-power for big squeeze.
    Realistically, what you got is big jam, yes in spite of what the internet says.

  2. #12
    Member Zutz2v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    Agreed, be happy as is or re-power for big squeeze.
    Realistically, what you got is big jam, yes in spite of what the internet says.
    What do you mean ?


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  3. #13
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zutz2v View Post
    The whole engine would need a rebuild with forged internals


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    Yes I’m aware of that. But my point is when you bore out and engine, you’re taking material from the cylinder walls, making them thinner, in order to make the cylinder bigger-the problem is, factory blocks don’t have enough material to spare to safely go from a 4.6 to a 5.0, the walls will be too thin after machining-especially for a boosted/nitrous engine.
    Basically, if you want a 5.0, you’ll need an aftermarket block since they have thicker walls to stand up to more abuse and overboring.
    To be honest it sounds like you don’t really know what you want or why, but you’re listening to someone else who isn’t the one spending the cash, so it’s very easy for him to say do this or that. Basically if he knows about 4.6 engines he would have told you you’ll need an aftermarket block to safely get a to a 5.0, and really, even when you get to a 5.0, nobody will know for sure that you have a 5.0 except the machinist and engine builder. If you just want forged internals to add boost you’d be better off leaving it a 4.6, and buying forged parts, or you could do as I suggested and buy a terminator 4.6 dohc engine, which is forged from the factory. At least if you get a termi engine it will look way better than your current one when you pop the hood.

  4. #14
    Member Zutz2v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyryd View Post
    Yes I’m aware of that. But my point is when you bore out and engine, you’re taking material from the cylinder walls, making them thinner, in order to make the cylinder bigger-the problem is, factory blocks don’t have enough material to spare to safely go from a 4.6 to a 5.0, the walls will be too thin after machining-especially for a boosted/nitrous engine.
    Basically, if you want a 5.0, you’ll need an aftermarket block since they have thicker walls to stand up to more abuse and overboring.
    To be honest it sounds like you don’t really know what you want or why, but you’re listening to someone else who isn’t the one spending the cash, so it’s very easy for him to say do this or that. Basically if he knows about 4.6 engines he would have told you you’ll need an aftermarket block to safely get a to a 5.0, and really, even when you get to a 5.0, nobody will know for sure that you have a 5.0 except the machinist and engine builder. If you just want forged internals to add boost you’d be better off leaving it a 4.6, and buying forged parts, or you could do as I suggested and buy a terminator 4.6 dohc engine, which is forged from the factory. At least if you get a termi engine it will look way better than your current one when you pop the hood.


    You hit the nail on the head on that one. I didn’t know I could do those things. I have a great setup already I just wanted more power. I’ll wait for the car to age a little more. I don’t even have 100k on it yet.


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  5. #15
    Member NickD's Avatar
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    Richard, your correct about boring the cylinders. The popular way to increase displacement is stroking the engine. As most of the time your purchasing a forged crank.

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  6. #16
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickD View Post
    Richard, your correct about boring the cylinders. The popular way to increase displacement is stroking the engine. As most of the time your purchasing a forged crank.

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    That’s true Nick, but stroking is big money. He’s close to the limit of the stocker with his current power level, I’d guess he’s running right around 10psi, next step without breaking the bank is to do forged internals and turn the boost up. Adding cubes is cool but it costs a ton, and it’s pointless for a toy of this nature imo.

  7. #17
    Member Zutz2v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyryd View Post
    That’s true Nick, but stroking is big money. He’s close to the limit of the stocker with his current power level, I’d guess he’s running right around 10psi, next step without breaking the bank is to do forged internals and turn the boost up. Adding cubes is cool but it costs a ton, and it’s pointless for a toy of this nature imo.
    I’m running 6psi, and I want to turn the boost up a little but I wanted to do it safely.


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  8. #18
    Member bluetoy's Avatar
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    Start here.
    https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/M-6009-B53

    Then add money until you cannot retire before you are 90.

  9. #19
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zutz2v View Post
    I’m running 6psi, and I want to turn the boost up a little but I wanted to do it safely.


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    General rule of thumb is 8-10 psi is safe as long as it’s tuned for it, the tune is crucial.

  10. #20
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Tune and correct supporting mods. Too many try to make big h/p on a shoestring, seldom if ever works out long term.

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