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Thread: mechanics-wheel cylinder brief leak

  1. #11
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    Two weeks ago I replaced the return,hold down and self adjuster springs with a spring kit from NAPA.
    Said made in USA on the box.

    Backing plate contact points look good and are greased.
    I have a brake shoe adjustment gauge so I don't think the adjustment is way off.
    Did a bunch of reverse then forward stops to fine tune it.

    No difference,the drivers side drum still gets a lot hotter.
    Last week I swapped the drums side to side and the drivers side drum still gets a lot hotter.

    Now wtf?
    Any chance it could be the drums or wheel bearing?
    Drums are original with 206 km.
    I measured the ID of each drum with the gauge and both are exactly 9 inches which is what a new drum would measure.No wear ridge on either drum.

    Mechanic who installed the new parking brake cables last fall and recently the wheel cylinders and hoses mentioned nothing unusual.

    Any ideas and if anyone has had a foxbody or other car with this issue chime in.

  2. #12
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Sure you have clearance on bar that energizes parking brake?

  3. #13
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    Going by memory I'm pretty sure there was clearance.
    With the parking brake not applied you could move that bar a bit back and forth I think.

    I made sure it was positioned right.
    I did check the parking brake and the drums would lock and release.

  4. #14
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Odd time, return springs on the cables themselves is too long and can actually push the shoe backwards a hard n push shoe ever so slightly outward n cause drag. Most common if aftermarket cables used but can happen with OEM replacements.

  5. #15
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    Drivers side drum still got hotter with the original parking brake cables that were shot.
    New cables were from NAPA and made in China but looked to be decent quality and the cable was coated.

    Back in 2014 when I first noticed the hotter drum I raised the back wheels off the ground and ran the wheels at speed for awhile and the drums did not get hot or warm so there was no drag.
    I haven't done that since then.

    Somethings up,there's only one brake line going back to the rear brakes so both sides should be even or close in temp.
    I can't figure this crap out.

    Those return springs on the cables don't look very strong.

  6. #16
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    before you spend anymore money I would re-bleed the brakes - if there is air in the line feeding the right rear the left side will be doing all the work - air in the line could still apply the brakes but with not with much force and with the wheel off the ground everything may appear to be ok - I would re-bleed the rear brakes starting with the furthest one away from the master cylinder first (right rear) - if this doesn't work branch out from there - keep in mind when trouble shooting always start with the least expensive area and branch out
    1979 Pace Car 302 4spd
    1981 Cobra t-top option - power to be determined, in the works

  7. #17
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    Local mechanic who installed the hoses and wheel cylinders bled the brakes.
    Must have used a pressure bleeder.

    Brake pedal feels as firm as it was before bleeding.

    I'm not going to touch that as I can't do a better job than a pressure bleeder at home.
    With my luck I'd probably screw things up more.

    I'll stop by the garage soon and see what he says.
    Hopefully he has an answer unlike the last mechanic.
    This guy is reputable/honest and has been around a long time.

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