All things car trailer.

[ZR]

With more and more of us using a car trailer on a semi regular basis, thought I'd start a thread to discuss.

Trailer maintenance


~ Tire pressure, inflate to max shown on the tire sidewall, yes even if trailering lighter loads.

~ Keep a regular eye on your tires for signs of weather cracking etc, tire covers or even a piece of plywood to block the sun will add life to them. Same goes to excessive rust etc on the rims

~ Start of the season, remove each wheel, check hub for excessive rust on the mounting face, clean if required, light coat of copper never seize and torque nuts when reinstalling.

~ If your axles are equipped with either bearing buddies or drilled / greaseable option, with wt off the wheel (jack up on the axle is fine) remove the dust cap and add grease while slowly spinning the wheel. Both systems have a spring loaded indicator to show when it's full. This should be done at least at the start of each season and good idea to repeat after each use or two, more often if you travel longer distances especially when it's hot out.

~ Safety chains must have positive lock hooks, S type hooks are no longer legit. When hooked to your tow vehicle, chains must be crossed.

~ Tie down straps, load range must be clearly marked and straps in good shape with no snags or cuts. As for how to use, some inspectors insist at least rear tie downs must be crossed / X'd to prevent load from shifting sideways, good idea to cross front and rear when possible.

~ Realistically, should do a full frame and suspension check before start of the season plus at least a light look over springs, shackles and general frame condition before each use. Walk around to check lights before pulling out of the drive way is a no brainer.

[ZR]

Loading your ride, not sure where this came from but do see the odd person loading a car (empty shell or trailer long enough to move load far enough forward are exceptions) on the trailer backwards. To say the practice is dangerous would be an understatement. Did you know, even when pulling with a dually or similar all it would take is a couple or three little scallops / whoops in the road to see the trailer and truck start a motion that would lift / take enough wt off the rear of your truck for it to suddenly change direction? Yes exception to the rule would be a trailer long enough to move vehicle further forward. Just because you may have done it a "million times" without incident does not mean your not an accident looking for a place to happen.
Some may also not be aware, how far forward or backward you tie your ride down makes a profound difference in how your truck n trailer combo perform. While you need adequate tongue wt, no upside to having excessive wt and having the trucks butt dragging or just plain driving poorly. If your unsure, good idea to buy a tonque wt scale, not expensive. There are also a few apps out there that do that and then some.

[RedSN]

To say the practice is dangerous would be an understatement.

[G-ForceJunkie]

Loading your ride, not sure where this came from but do see the odd person loading a car (empty shell or trailer long enough to move load far enough forward are exceptions) on the trailer backwards. To say the practice is dangerous would be an understatement. Did you know, even when pulling with a dually or similar all it would take is a couple or three little scallops / whoops in the road to see the trailer and truck start a motion that would lift / take enough wt off the rear of your truck for it to suddenly change direction? Yes exception to the rule would be a trailer long enough to move vehicle further forward. Just because you may have done it a "million times" without incident does not mean your not an accident looking for a place to happen.
Some may also not be aware, how far forward or backward you tie your ride down makes a profound difference in how your truck n trailer combo perform. While you need adequate tongue wt, no upside to having excessive wt and having the trucks butt dragging or just plain driving poorly. If your unsure, good idea to buy a tonque wt scale, not expensive. There are also a few apps out there that do that and then some.

Just to clarify, you are referring to vehicles that have much more front than rear weight? If that's the case, how would you load a mid or rear engine vehicle?

[ZR]

Just to clarify, you are referring to vehicles that have much more front than rear weight? If that's the case, how would you load a mid or rear engine vehicle?

Yes exactly that scenario. Based on how far back many / most trailer mfg's are locating the axles, suspect they are building in a higher level of idiot proofing into their offerings vs years gone by. While that puts a product out there thats harder to make dangerous, leaves most with tongue wt far above whats needed to be safe unless they load with with rear bumper pretty much even with rear of the trailer. Example, when using a U Haul transporter for my own car, position front tire just behind cross bar for the tire basket and use my own straps (front and rear) to secure. Still leaves it with excessive tongue wt but way closer to manageable. Of course with smaller / lighter cars, less of an issue. Trailer I just bought, axles are a good ways further back vs where I'd think is optimal for my use, I'll use tongue wt scale to confirm but moneys on rear bumper ends up pretty much even with rear of the trailer.
Good thought on the mid or rear engine car, if trailer is long enough, bet you can bring far enough forward to keep the hitch scale happy or if req'd, load backwards. Based on wheel positioning of my own trailer, bet more than enough room to get it balanced n pulling safely.
Funny story about wheel positioning and wt carrying, back in the day, local major wrecker supplier built me their first ever roll off / alum flat bed tow truck with a stinger on an extended cab dually chassis. Truck looked great n drove well but even with a car on the deck we could not keep front wheels of the truck on the ground with even a small car on the stinger. Seems they made a lil miscalculation on wheel base, truck required complete dismantle and re stretch chassis n reinstall wrecker.
Back to car trailers, for those pulling with a 3/4 ton or perhaps one ton dually, extra tongue wt would easily go un noticed unless loading with a scale or similar. Same extra wt on a 1/2 ton and the truck tells you in a hurry to sort things out.

[ZR]

Can anyone chime in if electric brake breakaway boxes are required by law or just suggested? Same goes for if law to have breakaway cable to activate hyd brakes?

[hammerhead]

Can anyone chime in if electric brake breakaway boxes are required by law or just suggested? Same goes for if law to have breakaway cable to activate hyd brakes?

required by law on trailers with brakes - first thing the DOT will check for and test in a raodside inspection - could b after a certain weight but my understanding trailers with brakes need a back up braking system... I don't work on the small trailers enough to know the exact law.

[1BAD92LX]

Great question ZR, I currently borrow a trailer with electric brakes on both axles but no breakaway box.
I hear good things about those Miska trailers too.

[ZR]

One I bought is the twin to Dave's trailer. Was originally looking at a new full aluminum or perhaps steel / galvanized dipped but this one fell into my lap on a deal that was too good to pass up.
Will be looking to make Left fender removable or perhaps load with a winch, maybe both.

[ZR]

Anyone have experience with this app?