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Thread: All things car trailer.

  1. #21
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1BAD92LX View Post
    So what's a safe tongue weight to aim for? I assume moving the car front or rear would change it
    Safe weight web site says approx. 10% of trailer weight so I guess I just answered my own question
    think a standard car hauler is pretty safe - If the truck and trailer look level or close to it its probably ok - also make sure you have the correct drop height on the ball - I often see people with the tongue too high or too low - if the rear truck suspension is beyond maxed out and really low compared to the front of the truck probably not a good idea to tow.
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  2. #22
    Member 1BAD92LX's Avatar
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    My truck does squat pretty good but have adjustable height hitch to level out trailer. I have the car location on the trailer figured out to help out the rear end of the truck.
    Will be adding a air assist/leveling system to my next truck
    Seems like most car hauler trailer locate their axles too far rearward, maybe just me?
    Stock engine Fox equipped with the Maximum Motorsports catalog. Now I have lots of Trick Flow stickers.

  3. #23
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    ^ Yes yes and yes they most certainly do.
    As I eluded to, suspect axle position is to help idiot proof the trailer itself and end up with too much tongue vs too little.

  4. #24
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1BAD92LX View Post
    My truck does squat pretty good but have adjustable height hitch to level out trailer. I have the car location on the trailer figured out to help out the rear end of the truck.
    Will be adding a air assist/leveling system to my next truck
    Seems like most car hauler trailer locate their axles too far rearward, maybe just me?
    It seems that way to me on the rear ward position of some car haulers - generally there is at least 4 ft behind the rear axle and the front axle not quite centre on an 18' trailer - helper air springs are good not sure what your truck is but maybe it needs a little help - I'm really happy with my new F150 suspension handle the 25' Airstream fairly well when I move it around and I imaging the new trucks are much lighter but for a 1500 I was impressed over some of the older 1500 I have towed with - I used a uhaul a few years ago and towed an old volvo with my Avalanche and it seemed to work out good (dimensions of the trailer) you want to try and keep some weight on the steer tires for even road contact and better handling
    1979 Pace Car 302 4spd
    1981 Cobra t-top option - power to be determined, in the works

  5. #25
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what problem they are trying to solve with a breakaway system on top of electric brakes. If your properly hooked up, chains are to correct length and crossed, cord is correct length plug is properly in it's socket (8way plug has a retainer nub on the door that helps hold plug in place), even if the ball was to somehow fail, trailer would stay plugged in meaning it still has brakes controlled by the truck. Not sure about other trucks, Ram factory controller in my truck is even smart enough to know if trailer is plugged in and there is a connection issue with the brakes. Confirmed it last night by pushing plug in just far enough to bring lights on by not far enough to make full connection, warning for no trailer brakes came up n the dash, push plug rest of the way in and it goes out.
    As for the breakaway system, battery is up on charge n everything connected, pulled pin to simulate trailer detached..........fucker doesn't work. Since not mandatory in Ontario, both it and the wiring harness have a date with the garbage bin. In my eyes, more of a potential problem vs a legit safety item.
    If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, for sure it should have a breakaway cable to the master cyl although getting length perfect to engage brakes is likely a tricky deal. Bet most don't work unless chains fail at the same time.

  6. #26
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    To me, larger safety improvement would be pushing all car trailer (or similar wt units) into using 2-5/16 higher quality hitches vs the all too common 2" you see out there.


    Looked online, ratings on cheapie 2" balls can be as low as 3500lb (some show no rating or are lower) with even decent quality ones maxing 6000 range. Now lets take an average steel trailer at say 2200lbs then dump your 3500lb ride on top (more if it's a Cobra or Shelby) and your almost maxed out on a good ball, way over on a cheap one. Same scenario but substitute a 2-5/16 hitch n ball, ratings for them generally fall in the 6-12,000lb range.
    How in the hell did they let this fall through the cracks?

  7. #27
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    I'm not sure what problem they are trying to solve with a breakaway system on top of electric brakes. If your properly hooked up, chains are to correct length and crossed, cord is correct length plug is properly in it's socket (8way plug has a retainer nub on the door that helps hold plug in place), even if the ball was to somehow fail, trailer would stay plugged in meaning it still has brakes controlled by the truck. Not sure about other trucks, Ram factory controller in my truck is even smart enough to know if trailer is plugged in and there is a connection issue with the brakes. Confirmed it last night by pushing plug in just far enough to bring lights on by not far enough to make full connection, warning for no trailer brakes came up n the dash, push plug rest of the way in and it goes out.
    As for the breakaway system, battery is up on charge n everything connected, pulled pin to simulate trailer detached..........fucker doesn't work. Since not mandatory in Ontario, both it and the wiring harness have a date with the garbage bin. In my eyes, more of a potential problem vs a legit safety item.
    If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, for sure it should have a breakaway cable to the master cyl although getting length perfect to engage brakes is likely a tricky deal. Bet most don't work unless chains fail at the same time.
    essentially its 12 volt battery - so it may charge when you use it...? I cant remember it's been about 15years since I worked on one...
    1979 Pace Car 302 4spd
    1981 Cobra t-top option - power to be determined, in the works

  8. #28
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Yes 12v battery charged via the lighting circuit.
    In my case, cable / pull out switch itself doesn't work.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    Wish I knew more about wt distribution hitches, can anyone chime in?
    Perhaps more of us should be using them, not sure.
    Talked to a couple of trailer shops about them but came away feeling I was getting more of a salesman's pitch vs real world advice.
    I grabbed this one when it was on sale a couple weeks ago. Haven't installed it yet so no review just yet. I can tell you the part itself is heavy AF, it must weight 200 lbs just the hitch.

    https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p8371593e
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  10. #30
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    When I was Florida, the guys at 5 star tuning were telling me as well about an alternative to airbags in the back of the truck. They said there is an over top of your leaf spring style system for about $300 U.S. that works better not only for towing but also general handling of the truck. I forget the name I will txt him in a while and find out.

    He also touched up my tune so coming back from Florida I used about 15% less gas.
    '21 F150 Screw 4x4 FX4 3.5 Powerboost (Iconic Silver)
    '21 Explorer ST (Atlas Blue)
    '19 Mustang Bullitt (Dark Hyland Green) Vortech Supercharged
    '11 Mustang GT 5.0L (Race Red) 8.92 @ 154 mph

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