Header Clearance

[m_owing]

You’ve heard it a million times. Headers don’t fit. Flowtech unequal shorty, stock 1988 5L. They’re rubbing the steering shaft. I tried unbolting the steering column and moving it, also ground some of the sharp edges of the knuckle joint but it’s still rubbing. I really don’t want to hammer a dent in that spot the nice ceramic coating will suffer. I should be able to slide the shaft out from the firewall more, moving the knuckle. How far can a knuckle joint angle until it won’t turn properly?

Any ideas are appreciated
92A56864-CCE2-4EE7-83AB-53E8AEA4B843.jpeg

[ZR]

Motor mounts a little sagged can cause it?
Sometimes a shim / washer or two under the stud where it goes through the K member will give you enough clearance (or between block and motor mount). Also possible K member is not in square / pushed off to one side.
Headers not fitting, yup ridiculous how common it is, yes even with uber expensive headers.

[bbriann]

^^^^ Motor Mounts...you beat me too it...stock motor mounts are designed for certain motor torque and age don't help. Harder Poly Mounts fixed issues i had years ago to limit engine movements...

[m_owing]

Sigh... I shimmed the mounts and it’s barely any different. I haven’t tried yet, but I don’t think I can drive it at all right now.

I’m thinking mounts and maybe a steering shaft, are the aftermarket shaft joints slimmer?

[Ponyryd]

Sigh... I shimmed the mounts and it’s barely any different. I haven’t tried yet, but I don’t think I can drive it at all right now.

I’m thinking mounts and maybe a steering shaft, are the aftermarket shaft joints slimmer?

If they’re old mounts they’re probably collapsed, depends how much you shimmed them, I guess. Pretty simple to do though, why not keep going till it clears? Are they 1 3/4” primaries?
Also is the engine centred? You can move it a bit from one side to the other because of the slots in the subframe.

[m_owing]

If they’re old mounts they’re probably collapsed, depends how much you shimmed them, I guess. Pretty simple to do though, why not keep going till it clears? Are they 1 3/4” primaries?
Also is the engine centred? You can move it a bit from one side to the other because of the slots in the subframe.

I thought about more shims but the mount bolts are actually pretty short, I wanted lots of thread in the block.

The slots you speak of, you mean the slots in the K member the mount stud attaches to? I thought about that, didn’t get a good look at it but from online info there is a “locating pin” on the mount that aligns with a hole near the slot. That would limit the travel but it’s worth a shot. If it’s that easy I don’t know what more people don’t do that for header clearance at least short term.

And yes, 1.75” primaries. I picked my material first and didn’t pay attention to the primary size. These were the only ones that were both stainless and ceramic (under $500, at least).

[Ponyryd]

I thought about more shims but the mount bolts are actually pretty short, I wanted lots of thread in the block.

The slots you speak of, you mean the slots in the K member the mount stud attaches to? I thought about that, didn’t get a good look at it but from online info there is a “locating pin” on the mount that aligns with a hole near the slot. That would limit the travel but it’s worth a shot. If it’s that easy I don’t know what more people don’t do that for header clearance at least short term.

And yes, 1.75” primaries. I picked my material first and didn’t pay attention to the primary size. These were the only ones that were both stainless and ceramic (under $500, at least).

Yes, shim the lower stud where the mount goes into the subframe, not the upper engine mounts. You can also use a level on the intake, to allow you to possibly just shim the driver’s side to get the clearance you need, and ya, there are locating pins, but they don’t mean much at all, more a reference point than anything.

[m_owing]

I know it'll hurt taking a hammer to new headers but a dent won't make an ounce of perf difference. Can make a pretty clean job of it by marking, removing, lay one hammer against it and strike with another (eye protection in place please).

There you go with your blacksmithing again. I won't do it!

Yes, shim the lower stud where the mount goes into the subframe, not the upper engine mounts. You can also use a level on the intake, to allow you to possibly just shim the driver’s side to get the clearance you need, and ya, there are locating pins, but they don’t mean much at all, more a reference point than anything.

Couldn't even get the mount-kmember nuts off. Impact and everything. I let it soak in penetrating oil and I'll take a torch to it. Might order new mounts anyway. But I won't get a chance to get back to my work space for a while.

In the meantime I decided to look at other headers and noticed something I didn't before. I put together a collage thinking someone like myself might stumble upon this thread way in the future and it may help

All shown are drivers side header. NOT to scale. The headers on the right all follow the same primary routing, with the '1st' and 'last' primary going to the 'outside' of the collector. The column on the left are a bit different. Curious enough, the MAC picture are the ones I took off the car (full of holes) but fit nonetheless, and have the same orientation as the Flowtechs that didn't fit, perhaps the primaries on the MACs are 1-5/8", I know the flowtechs are 1-3/4"

shorty_header_comparison.jpg

[LX89]

I once installed Mac unequal shorty headers in my 89 with stock engine/heads and imo it wasn't worth it.
When they eventually rusted out causing exhaust leaks I put the stock headers back on.

There were no clearance issues with them and no performance gain I could notice.
Actually it felt like more torque with the stock headers.

[m_owing]

I once installed Mac unequal shorty headers in my 89 with stock engine/heads and imo it wasn't worth it.
When they eventually rusted out causing exhaust leaks I put the stock headers back on.

There were no clearance issues with them and no performance gain I could notice.
Actually it felt like more torque with the stock headers.

I’ve had so many problems with exhaust I almost want to go back to stock! I’m replacing a set of unequal Mac headers that rusted full of holes like yours. These new ones are stainless with a ceramic coating. They can’t rust, right?