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Thread: Fallout on a white car

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    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Fallout on a white car

    Car in question is a daily-driven 2019, has rust/fallout all over and it’s a pearl white, the fallout is likely coming from a manufacturing plant near the work parking lot. Has nothing on it as of yet, I do plan to use some kind of wax/sealer once a year before winter, but I want to get the fallout off first.

  2. #2
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Clay bar and elbow grease should fix it up.

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    Super Moderator Scrape's Avatar
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    I would highly recommend using this on your vehicle. This product is designed for the removal of any contamination that is imbedded into your paint. The smell is unpleasant but you can get it in a “lemon” scent LOL. It smells like death with a hint of lemon. This product can be used on windshields, plastics, rims, etc...you then could follow up with a clay bar or a clay towel or clay mitt with your favorite clay lube to make sure you got everything off. The Iron X will remove 99% of it off.
    I can go over the how to use it if you want in a separate post.
    16893288-D456-4B93-AC8D-7DA85D292F02.jpeg
    this is where I usually go to order it from.
    https://www.autoobsessed.com/product...iABEgKBk_D_BwE

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    Driver xeninworx's Avatar
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    Get a decontaminator, like Iron X, can be found on Amazon. You’d wash, then decontaminate, wash again then clay bar. Then wax it. Decontaminators turn the contamination on the car purple. The more purple the more fallout/metal particles are on the car. Cleans the brake dust from wheels really well too.
    2014 V6 MT Club of America

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    Mustang Occasionally
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    After you get it fixed up, I’d recommend a ceramic coat to help protect it and make cleaning easier in the future.

  6. #6
    Posting and liking.... Ponyryd's Avatar
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    Yes @Scrape I would love to know how hard it is to use if you have the time. I have used clay bar in the past (still have some) and was trying to avoid doing it again, but if it’s the same amount of work I guess I’ll just clay it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Armen View Post
    After you get it fixed up, I’d recommend a ceramic coat to help protect it and make cleaning easier in the future.
    So far I still prefer old-school waxing, since I haven’t really been impressed with CC, and there’s nobody in my area I have seen do a good job with it. Many guys have told me about a CC you can do at home, but I’m sure that stuff sucks, and I’d rather just use wax.

  7. #7
    AKA MINT2000 CON VERT's Avatar
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    Can this be used on PPF ? Thanks G>


    Quote Originally Posted by xeninworx View Post
    Get a decontaminator, like Iron X, can be found on Amazon. You’d wash, then decontaminate, wash again then clay bar. Then wax it. Decontaminators turn the contamination on the car purple. The more purple the more fallout/metal particles are on the car. Cleans the brake dust from wheels really well too.
    ~REMEMBER, life in prison doesn't mean SHIT to a senior citizen ~

  8. #8
    Super Moderator Scrape's Avatar
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    Shake, spray directly on the surface after your wash, agitation with a wash mitt or ideally use the Optimum big red wash sponge. This seems to a better job to spread the product evenly and you really donít want to have a smelly wash mitt. Make sure you do this in the shade or you will damage your paint.
    I am copying this from their website to make it easy and accurately.


    • Removes iron particles and prevents the spread of iron-related damage & helps to protect your vehicle from paint system failure.
    • Safe to use, acid free, and pH neutral (pH 6-7).
    • Safe to use on clear coat paint.
    • Safe to use on aluminum, chrome, alloy, or clear coated wheels.

    Directions:


    1. Shake bottle.
    2. Wash vehicle, rinse vehicle, and remove the majority of the water with a quick towel "once-over".
    3. Spray IronX across the contaminated area.
    4. After 2 ~ 5 minutes rinse off or wash off if dried (depending on environment and temperatures).
    5. Verify all IronX is completely removed and then dry vehicle.
    6. Remove nozzle and replace cap after use (to avoid leakage).

    Precautions:


    • Test in inconspicuous area before use.
    • Do not use on anodized surfaces.
    • Do not use on unknown aftermarket finishes, or low cost acrylic paint.
    • Avoid using on fabric convertible tops or rubber that contains recycled tires.
    • Keep out of reach of children and pets.
    • Do not ingest.
    • Use outside or in ventilated area.
    • Avoid prolonged contact with skin.
    • Avoid inhalation.
    • Use PPE as needed.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyryd View Post
    Yes @Scrape I would love to know how hard it is to use if you have the time. I have used clay bar in the past (still have some) and was trying to avoid doing it again, but if itís the same amount of work I guess Iíll just clay it.



    So far I still prefer old-school waxing, since I havenít really been impressed with CC, and thereís nobody in my area I have seen do a good job with it. Many guys have told me about a CC you can do at home, but Iím sure that stuff sucks, and Iíd rather just use wax.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator Scrape's Avatar
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    Test it first to be safe. I did it on my BMW and was ok. no stains. Never tried on the Tiguan yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by CON VERT View Post
    Can this be used on PPF ? Thanks G>

  10. #10
    AKA MINT2000 CON VERT's Avatar
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    Thanks Scrape , I think I will leave it to the pro's when it needs to be done, till then I'm with Ponyryd clay bar and some wax ~
    ~REMEMBER, life in prison doesn't mean SHIT to a senior citizen ~

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