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View Poll Results: Ceratec -Do you use it?

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  • Yes

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  • No

    6 100.00%
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Thread: LM Ceratec who uses it?

  1. #11
    Member N89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WidowrRacing View Post
    Thank you…..I was very particular in wanting the NA 6.2 vs the 5.5L bi-turbo. Just my personal preference.
    That's awesome.

  2. #12
    Member WidowrRacing's Avatar
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    Really surprised no users of this product on here yet….especially Coyote owners.
    I ordered mine from Amazon…2 pack 300ml X 2 for $77 tax in/delivered.
    Suggested ratio is 300ml to 5L of oil.

    I’d like to drive the car as is with the oil currently in it and monitor the oil temp so I can compare it after it’s treated.
    I know the car has a factory oil temp gauge but I have no idea what it runs at now. I drove the car twice in Dec.
    Last edited by WidowrRacing; 04-03-2022 at 11:09 AM.

  3. #13
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    Looks like it's on sale at NAPA this month.
    Didn't know it was that expensive.

    https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/LMYL...pressionRank=2

  4. #14
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    I spent a week on a tribology course at a refinery in Sarnia.

    They went into great depth about automotive lubricants after covering off a lot of other stuff.

    The refineries spend a lot of time researching and formulating lubricants. If they think something is beneficial they research it and if valid come up with the proper amounts so as to offer maximum benefit without compromising other competing characteristics within the formulation.

    The formulation (recipe) is closely scrutinized and the total additive package is what differentiates lubricant qualities.

    An external additive, or topcoat, throws off the balance of the entire formulation. If a refiner saw an advantage, they would include it in the formulation to gain competitive advantage.

    I went into the course thinking I knew better with additives I was using. The first thing I did when returning home was to change my oil, and change the oil I selected.

    Discussion on oil additives is the automotive equivalent of google virologists discussing ivermectin with about the same credibility on both sides.

  5. #15
    Member WidowrRacing's Avatar
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    ^^^^^Interesting…..so you would not use Ceratec I’m assuming?
    What oil/grade do you use now and in what kind of vehicle?

  6. #16
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Also keep in mind, while they are balancing what works best cost rears it's ugly head.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    Also keep in mind, while they are balancing what works best cost rears it's ugly head.
    true, this is expressed in oil prices. The base stock is typically the same or very similar to pretty much the entire product line of any given refiner, it's the additive package that adds cost.

    Any company shilling oil that doesn't do their own refining will have variability in it's base stock. I would lean towards a company that refines it's own base stock. The varnishes that build up in an engine will be particular to the base stock, changing brands or if the particular brand switches to another oil source will affect the varnishes etc.

    For my beater I use whatever is on sale, even the bottom tier stuff at China Tire is decent.

    Keep in mind the majority of engine wear occurs on cold start. A pan heater will make a bigger difference than expensive oils IMO.

    Also keep in mind oil pressure is a crude measure. Oil flow is what you're trying to infer by reading oil pressure. Oil pressure is easy to measure, oil flow is not. You can have fantastic oil pressure with clogged oil passages and the pump building pressure against a clog. You can have low oil pressure but good flow that will make you nervous but has oil flowing freely to the moving bits.

    For example, I have a 1UZ Toyota V8 who's factory oil pressure at idle is 4 psi. I select an oil for flow characteristics when cold and have a few jugs of 0-40 synthetic on the shelf for the day I finally fire up my Dart Windsor.

    When I select an oil for an engine I care about I select synthetics. 20 years ago there were concerns about seal swell and other differences between dyno oil and synthetics. Those concerns have all been resolved years ago.

    Oil filtration is another issue to consider. Essentially the smaller the filter the higher the oil velocity through the filter. The higher the velocity the greater the chances of bigger nuggets passing through the media. It's not just about avoiding Fram.

  8. #18
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    The fact vendors can sell oil at 50% off on a regular basis and still (I assume) make a profit speaks volumes as to how hard we are getting corn holed. Spec our domestic oils are made to pales in comparison to Europe.

  9. #19
    Member WidowrRacing's Avatar
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    So if the majority of engine wear occurs at cold start…..wouldn’t using a product like LM Ceratec make sense?
    It bonds to metal and provides a thin layer of protection and reduces friction. At least that’s what it claims to do.
    LM and several YouTubers put this to the test and like I said a strong majority like the product.

  10. #20
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Makes perfect sense to me. Original Slick 50 was good for the same reason.

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