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Thread: Attaching posts to a waterproof deck.

  1. #11
    Club Supporter hammerhead's Avatar
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    I would be inclined to think that whole area was once a walkout deck and that room has been added then closed in with blocks beneath —judging by the siding up against the the window frame in the corner and looks also to be a flat roof on the closed in area —unless there is some sort of flashing under the siding there is a potential for water damage around the exterior walls as mentioned —the deck area itself could have been protected with a membrane and has flashing... it raises a lot of questions. I would think there's only one way to sort it out and to look deeper if the space beneath is livable space now. I'm not an engineer but many things don't look right there.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammerhead View Post
    I would be inclined to think that whole area was once a walkout deck and that room has been added then closed in with blocks beneath —judging by the siding up against the the window frame in the corner and looks also to be a flat roof on the closed in area —unless there is some sort of flashing under the siding there is a potential for water damage around the exterior walls as mentioned —the deck area itself could have been protected with a membrane and has flashing... it raises a lot of questions. I would think there's only one way to sort it out and to look deeper if the space beneath is livable space now. I'm not an engineer but many things don't look right there.
    Rest of the house looks to be block foundation as well, plus he said its basement under. My guess is it was designed as a walk out patio.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laffs View Post
    If it's Mod Bit the proper way to do this would be
    -cut the roof out to the substrate
    -attach the post base to the wood or concrete
    -drop your 4x4 in the base
    -add cant strip (45 degree angled wood blocking) to the perimeter of the post
    -bring new base and cap sheet up the post a few inchs
    -add 3 course mastic/mesh to the corners and granules
    -apply a new metal counter flashings to where the roofing ends with a water cutoff mastic

    Improper way that might work would be scrape the area, screw the post base directly overtop the mod, install the post, 3 course mastic and mesh the post base in to the roof field. Kinda ugly but "should seal"

    If its EPDM its

    -cut the roof out to the substrate
    -attach the post base to the wood or concrete
    -drop your 4x4 in the base
    -clean perimeter of the penetration with weathered membrane cleaner
    -prime area
    -apply a prefab square pipe boot with tape, roll it in to membrane
    -lap seal perimeter.

    Either case, I'd probably say fuck it and lag my new railing posts in to the wood fascia of the deck, then seal the area of the old posts.


    Thanks appreciate the input. Sounds like I might be bringing in a pro (how far do you commute? Lol)

    Not super keen on messing with the membrane myself if I flood the basement. My wife will kick my ass. Lol

  4. #14
    Member Laffs's Avatar
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    Our service guys go as far as London/Sarnia, but to be honest to pay us to do this the way we'd want to do it to ensure no leaks would be $2,500 all day and honestly I don't think that's money well spent in this case if the age of the roof is unknown. That's a huge chunk of what could go toward a newer more proper system.

    I'd strongly encourage to go through with attaching new 4x4 railings to the the rim joist for now vs playing around with that roof and trying to get it all sealed. Alternatively if you wanted to get one of those prefab aluminum railing kits and secure the post base to the existing 2x4 base, along with a heavy bead of dymonic caulking around all the joints you'd likely have no issues that way.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laffs View Post
    Our service guys go as far as London/Sarnia, but to be honest to pay us to do this the way we'd want to do it to ensure no leaks would be $2,500 all day and honestly I don't think that's money well spent in this case if the age of the roof is unknown. That's a huge chunk of what could go toward a newer more proper system.

    I'd strongly encourage to go through with attaching new 4x4 railings to the the rim joist for now vs playing around with that roof and trying to get it all sealed. Alternatively if you wanted to get one of those prefab aluminum railing kits and secure the post base to the existing 2x4 base, along with a heavy bead of dymonic caulking around all the joints you'd likely have no issues that way.
    my only concern with attaching to the rim joist would be the point load. our hope for the mud room and decks is to upgrade and bring in a timber frame look. and the boss wants the porch to be covered again. so we are looking at upgrading to 6x6 posts and a timber frame structure to hold the roof. similar to this but with a lower pitch on the roof

    e64e4440f45dead095d33ff645215d2b.jpg


    the more i stew on it the more i think Im getting it re covered with a proper decking like you mentioned.

  6. #16
    Member Laffs's Avatar
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    Ya if you’re cutting it open to reframe and change structure go all the way and rip it down and do a new membrane.

  7. #17
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    She always wants to do things the expensive way. Lol.

    Thanks again

  8. #18
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    As you know, I build decks for a living. Laff's methods are pretty much the way I'd go to be safe and secure.
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  9. #19
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    figured i would throw an update on this.

    this was our third winter since moving here and the first winter i just ignored the snow built up on this deck.

    in January one of the kids said there was water dripping in the basement. sure enough under the deck a bubble had formed in the drywall on the ceiling

    last week decided it was time to open it up underneath and see how bad it was.

    answer not great. the vapor barrier was holding a whole bunch of water. and the drywall and insulation directly under the deck was newer than the rest. as in looks like it was replaced probably not long before the house went on the market to hide the water leak. there was mold so i pulled all the drywall down under the deck so it could dry and be treated. also decided since there was mold that better make sure it wasn't traveling down the wall. in the 6 feet of wall I uncovered i found no mould. I did how ever find a major structure issue and more electrical problems. buried wires, hidden boxes.

    so that turned into a complete gut of that side of the basement. the plumbing has issues, the electrical has issues and the structure has issues.

    so how is your day going?

    buried wires and boxes
    IMG_7585.jpgIMG_7586.jpg
    Last edited by 5.4MarkVIII; 04-02-2023 at 11:00 AM.

  10. #20
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    window with floor joists that aren't on anything other than the window frame

    IMG_7584.jpg


    think that is bad? it gets worse. this is the beam the supports all the floor joists under the master bedroom. it also terminated above the window. as in there is nothing under one end of the beam other than a wooden window frame
    IMG_7587.jpg

    this might explain some of the drywall cracking in the master bedroom and why that window doesn't open

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