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At the end of the day, at T45 doesn't have the strength potential for the dough. Why do you think its not a common build and why one of the best drivetrain guys won't touch it. I didn't know you were stuck in a class because of it, so you don't have much choice - the built one you are talking about has a warranty?
I bought the new T5 cause it was gonna be double that to do a T56 and plenty of hassles.
I'm not really concerned about the class thing, but all in all my aim is for a really dependable 500 or so rwhp. The 5 speed is also a nice option as it's about 60lbs less than the T-56. Weight is a big concern on the track, as saving 60lbs is REALLY hard, so adding it to get a 6th gear that I'll never use doesn't make sense for my application.
I also don't power shift or launch the car hard, it's more 3rd-4th-5th I'm worried about. None of the tracks I go to have 2nd gear corners.
The other consideration is that the TKO600 installed is knocking on the $4,500 range, which is too much for my car, I love my Mustang, but at the end of the day it's a 99. I don't think I'd see much benefit over a solid T-45. But the opinions are great for sure.
The build sheet I have is:
Complete Street-Strip Rebuild for High HP Applications
Cryogenic gear treatment
REM Treatment
26 Spline Input shaft, heat treated
SureShift Billet Shift Fork (1-2)
SureShift Billet Shift Fork (3-4)
SureShift plate 1-2
SureShift plate 3-4
Front Seal
Rear Seal
Billet Steel Hub Inserts (set)
Bronze Shift fork Pads (2 pair)
Bearings
1-2 carbon fiber lined synchro ring
3-4 carbon fiber lined synchro ring
5-R carbon fiber lined synchro ring
Replace stock synchro springs
Repalce stock shift fork pads (5-R)
Replace stock synchro inserts (1-2 & 5-R)
Clutch fork pivot ball stud
Since your not breaking parts, I'd be more inclined to suggest run what you've got and deal with it if you should see a failure.
+1; and keep an eye out for a good used spare. Back in the day I used to get T5's for about $400 and be able to run em at autocross or lapping days for quite a while before they expired. Most of the light transmissions have case stiffness issues - once they flex, it doesn't matter whats inside, they wear out and eventually toast a bearing or shaft.
500 rhwp is really stout for a road race car. What is the weight on track with you and full of fuel etc?
My 87 vert weighs about 3650 full with driver, have Victor Jr. alum heads at PSP that will knock off 50 lbs.
App 400 N/A rwhp.
REV N HIGH in Pickering! Had my 4:10's put in 4 years ago, Darren is a Great guy to deal with and does things Right the first time!
Call Jeff at Mustang Specailtiez his guy Glen that comes in is great with that stuff. He did two sets of gears for me and they were both perfect and whisper quiet.
A turbo: Exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.
"Small cubes and boost makes Darryl something something.............."
I totally agree with you, I'm actually pretty decent on parts, things wear out instead of break but I can feel that my transmission is on the way out (3 and 4 are kinda shitty feeling) and I'm doing Targa Newfoundland next year and want a setup where I'm not driving around praying I don't break ha ha.
I'd like to award Paul at PSP with the award for best gear job. It's basically what I'd consider perfect now, HUGE difference. Just to note, this is the 5th set of gears in this car 3.27, 3.73, 4.10, 3.55, 3.55. He did an excellent job, and very reasonable on the wallet side of things too. No more 8 second bull rides in first gear, and no more pushing in the clutch work arounds. I knew someone could do this right.