Battery Relocation

[tulowd]

^^good post...Im using welding cable to the front

Ive run the cable on the inside of the car...there are several good locations

especially along the side where the other wires run

but theres always the concern that it could chafe & short

best is trunk solenoid but you still need the heavy wire to the front...

its only hot when you start the engine...Im using the stock alternator too & underdrives

I have some discharge at idle...but I m usually on the highway

even heavy stop & go traffic hasnt been a problem...overheating...yes

Battery wire will have a magnetic field aka electronic noise around it, especially when the battery is being recharged at a high rate or when lots of accessories are on like A/C. rear defroster, amplifiers etc. Audio engine noise can come from this when other wires are run parallel and close to it. Yes, I've heard speaker wires absorb enough radiant noise to make tweeters whizz even with the amp output wires disconnected! Same of course with RCA / any kind of shielded analog signal cables. Optical or digital transmissions are unaffected.
Would imagine any sophisticated electronics and (engine) computers wouldn't like a large source of magnetic / electronic interference near them. Using a braided shield might help, but keeping the wires far apart is the best bet.

[92redragtop]

They are using that one in the truck as the starter relay. That way, no live large cable running front to rear that might / would cause a fire should the car suffer a catatrophic accident and damage the cable itself. Smaller feed rear to front would mearly burn off in a second or two vs the huge amps the larger cable would carry.
Cool stuff for a race car but to me a fail on a street ride that has big amp acc's to feed. Yes most can and will run it that way with little to no trouble while a number of others will see voltage related issues with ignition system or even stereos. Live cable well supported and properly routed to prevent damage is well within the bounds of being safe, few late model rides have trunk mounted batts.

Both my Lincoln LS and Volvo S60R have original factory trunk mounted batteries - LS battery is 10 years old this year and cranks easily in this cold weather and Volvo battery just died 2 weeks ago at 8 years old (but this car has aftermarket amp, electronically controlled suspension, etc.

[92redragtop]

So Rick, if you were relocating a battery to the truck of a Fox with a stock starter...how would you do it? This is basically what I want to know as I trust your opinion and knowledge.
If it makes much of a difference, id prefer to leave my stock solenoid in the engine compartment.

ZR did mine about 4 or 5 years ago using a red top Optima battery in the trunk with a basic battery hold-down (from Steeda I think) and it's worked well with no issues. Sometimes the car will sit for a month and the start up easily...even in winter. Also running a Powermaster alternator.

[92redragtop]

Unfortunately those vehicles tend to be locked out and the trunk wont pop til it has power. Also the jumper leads under the hood are terrible.

Gm was winning in the battery orientation department for a good number of years... (sarcasm)

Both my cars have emergency key entry for the trunk in case you lose all power.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

ZR did mine about 4 or 5 years ago using a red top Optima battery in the trunk with a basic battery hold-down (from Steeda I think) and it's worked well with no issues. Sometimes the car will sit for a month and the start up easily...even in winter. Also running a Powermaster alternator.

I'll talk to Rick about doing mine in the spring I think.

[ZR]

Securely mount the battery in the trunk / vent if it's not a gel style
Run #1 or #2 fine wound cable from battery neg to floor of the trunk for ground
Make a cable outta the same stuff to connect the engine to the chassis for ground
Run #1 or #2 find wound cable to the terminal the positive battery cable had previously been connected to (at the solenoid). Key is to route and secure cable where it's not prone to rubbing, chaffing or being burnt by the exhaust or making contact over a speed bump or similar.
Done.

[onDjuice]

I think i'll do a step by step when I do my car next month. And show you guys how its done right..

[ZR]

Not a bad idea on the surface but bet it would make the whole affair large enough that it would be more prone to being snagged by a curb / speed bump etc.

absolutely the best way...reason?

the hot wire...in other words the red wire will be very short in the trunk to the solenoid

just safer imo not having a long hot wire to the front of the car which could short out

& ground somewhere causing a fire...also guys will run this wire under the car...dont like this personally

if you want to run a long hot wire under car & leave the solenoid on the fender in the front

get some plastic abs under the car & run the wire thru it

sorry Rick...just read your post...after I posted...did you know about the plastic abs trick?

Not a bad idea on the surface but bet it would make the whole affair large enough that it would be more prone to being snagged by a curb / speed bump etc.

[ZR]

The system they describe looks awesome on the surface but if the alt caff's out the several feet of #8 wire is left to feed all acc's. All is still ok until the unaware driver turns on enough acc's to pop the #8 cables fuseable link. Now your dead in the water. Engine may even quit before the fuse pops as some overly sensitve ECM's go brain dead when the voltage drops even a volt or two under spec. Alt quiting and the driver not noticing immediately is a real life not at all uncommon scenario.
I also question the ability of the alts regulator to operate correctly when it's connection to the battery is going to see at least some voltage drop due to the length of the run and smallish wire used, may be wrong on that angle but do get the idea it would keep the alt in at least a partial overcharging scenario.
Pauls suggestion of a big ass fuse that can stand huge amps but blow in case of a short, to me makes the most sense (assuming you'd feel more secure if there is some sort of a fuse).
In the end, comes down to where your comfort level falls.

[tulowd]

I think i'll do a step by step when I do my car next month. And show you guys how its done right..

Sounds like you have some different ideas about how it should be done? Pls enlighten us.