95 Mustang suspension question

[95GT_VERT]

picked up the 95 GT from RJ and drove it home, car rides very comfortable for the seat of your pants, but i find it always wants to moved side to side depending on road grade or bumps and dips. The steering so so precise that the smallest movement sends the car sharply in the direction you've turned the wheel. car is lowered on DECH springs with Stock dampers and NO caster camber plates so the front tires are leaned in at the top pretty hard. It also has the stock pinion snubber installed and its touching the top of the diff at ride height. What steps should i take to make this car a little more forgiving crusing down the highway.

* of course all the things i described are multiplied at higher speeds.

[fast Ed]

So you know it needs a proper alignment, and probably a new set of struts and shocks that are damped firmly enough to control those springs. Stock struts and shocks won't do it, even if they weren't old and tired. That will help, but on a 20 year old car, who is to say what else is worn and needs replacement. The additional negative camber is contributing to it hunting around on the crown and grade of the road. You should do caster / camber plates, for two reasons. Chances are you don't need to have as much negative camber as it has now, -1 degree is plenty for the street, but with it being lowered it is likely out of the adjustment range of the stock mounting plates. Also, adding positive caster that will be possible with the c/c plates will give the car better steering feel and much better straight line tracking. SN95 cars have more positive caster than Foxes, but still benefit from having more. Also, get that snubber trimmed down!


cheers
Ed

[95GT_VERT]

So you know it needs a proper alignment, and probably a new set of struts and shocks that are damped firmly enough to control those springs. Stock struts and shocks won't do it, even if they weren't old and tired. That will help, but on a 20 year old car, who is to say what else is worn and needs replacement. The additional negative camber is contributing to it hunting around on the crown and grade of the road. You should do caster / camber plates, for two reasons. Chances are you don't need to have as much negative camber as it has now, -1 degree is plenty for the street, but with it being lowered it is likely out of the adjustment range of the stock mounting plates. Also, adding positive caster that will be possible with the c/c plates will give the car better steering feel and much better straight line tracking. SN95 cars have more positive caster than Foxes, but still benefit from having more. Also, get that snubber trimmed down!



cheers
Ed

Thats kind of what i wanted to know, which of the mods would help the wondering, I cant afford to just go out and buy everything all at once but it sounds like CC plates will be the first thing i try and buy

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Thats kind of what i wanted to know, which of the mods would help the wondering, I cant afford to just go out and buy everything all at once but it sounds like CC plates will be the first thing i try and buy

Just like Ed said! The addition of the extra caster makes a huge difference. Also, KYB GR2's which are a little better than stock replacement can be had brand new for not alot of $$. I know he changed the front control arm bushings in that car so maybe looking at the rear LCA's may be a good idea as well.

[95GT_VERT]

Just like Ed said! The addition of the extra caster makes a huge difference. Also, KYB GR2's which are a little better than stock replacement can be had brand new for not alot of $$. I know he changed the front control arm bushings in that car so maybe looking at the rear LCA's may be a good idea as well.

Yes he did, car is sweet. it just drives like a car that was lowered without supporting mods. For most people inlcluding myself i dont mind how it drives, but my wife want to use it and she doesnt need any help being a bad aggressive driver

[RedSN]

which of the mods would help the wondering

Both mods Ed suggested are mandatory IMO. Trimming the snubber is free

I got away with camber bolts and KYB shocks/struts for a while on my SN95 with Eibach Pro-Kit, but eventually went CC plates and Bilsteins.
But I don't think the KYB's are going to keep up with the stiffer DECH springs.


edit: the rear diff snubber is touching while at rest? i.e. you have no rear suspension travel?

[95GT_VERT]

Both mods Ed suggested are mandatory IMO. Trimming the snubber is free

I got away with camber bolts and KYB shocks/struts for a while on my SN95 with Eibach Pro-Kit, but eventually went CC plates and Bilsteins.
But I don't think the KYB's are going to keep up with the stiffer DECH springs.

Yeah, im gonna start the Kijiji watch for parts. Im refuse to pay full price for parts anymore, I've been patient with my Convertible build and got top quality parts for so cheap compared to new

[Uncle Buck]

My 95 was lowered on Eibach Pros with a short snubber and KGB shocks and stuts. Camber bolts seemed to be enough to dial in the alignment. Car had a good feel over all different roads.

The biggest improvement was replacing the steering shaft. It had some play in the nylon bushing in the slip joint. I just bought a low mileage used 2002 shaft from MPS. $40 to my door. No more wandering. Night and day difference.

[ZR]

As said above, replace stock shocks / struts + set of MM CC plates then an alignment, difference will be night and day. If your able to add in a set of MM alum rack bushings and one of their steering shafts, you'll think you died and went to heaven.
Always amazing me how many lowered rides we get in with the stock pinion snubber still in place, car is riding on it at all times. Do yourself a solid and order the shorty version from MM, it's cheap as dirt.

[ZR]

PS, great deal on a nice ride, congrats.