Help with etest fail

[Tailites]

its hunting a tad...not being nit picky...just an observation...mines worse btw

but when it heats up it runs fine...is yours the same?

Im sure Slope will have a comment...he likes everything stock/stockish on the computer Fox cars

[b1lk1]

I am running a B cam and 1.7 rockers so the idle is not gonna be smooth. I have a stock HO cam I am tempted to put in to smooth it out, but I love some lumpy idle, lol.

The warmer it gets the better, but I really need to change the thermostat to get it hotter.

[Slope]

I am running a B cam and 1.7 rockers so the idle is not gonna be smooth. I have a stock HO cam I am tempted to put in to smooth it out, but I love some lumpy idle, lol.

The warmer it gets the better, but I really need to change the thermostat to get it hotter.

Leave the 1.7 rockers and put the stock cam in it. You will pick up HP/TQ and most of all, driveability.

192 or 195 thermostat.

[b1lk1]

I do have GT40 heads that are pretty well worked over, the guy I got them from spent a lot of cash on them, he was pissed as he could have bought aluminum heads for the same price (somewhere around $1100 I believe). Right now it starts falling off around 6200RPM, but it has killer throttle response and roasts them dried out old 245/50's like no tomorrow through the first three gears and in 2nd on a roll around 40kmph I can break them free at will too.

I have another motor I'm gonna start rebuilding and will be using the stock cam as I want a supercharger before the end of the summer. Right now I just want it through e-testing so I can fix the rusty rear quarters and get a real paint job.

I was thinking 195 degree too so that is what I'm going with.

[Slope]

I was thinking 195 degree too so that is what I'm going with.

Big misconception on thermostat temperatures. Everyone "thinks" that anything over 180 is "too hot".

Ask them for an explanation next time. Their usual answer: "it just is".

I shake my head EVERY time.

Remember what Ford put in there from the factory and how bad we can beat these cars. Oh, they had to warranty the cars they sold too...

[b1lk1]

I hear ya, I feel that anything under 190 is not gonna let it warm up enough to run closed loop properly too.

[Slope]

I hear ya, I feel that anything under 190 is not gonna let it warm up enough to run closed loop properly too.

Bingo.

I love the way the oil changes and what under the valve covers look like on a 160* thermostat motor...

Bleh!

[onDjuice]

The high temp setting are for emission's..

[ZR]

^ We'll have to agree to disagree, siding with Slope on this one.
To me the ideal set up would be a 190deg stat with an thermostatically controlled oil cooler to ensure constant (as constant as possible) temps + ability to keep temps from climbing. You'll find most run a cooler stat because the cooling system alone isn't able to control max temp under a wide range of driving conditions and outside temps. In this instance, engine spends far too much time running at temps that don't bring oil temps up correctly plus keep the computer bouncing things from open to closed loop which in turn makes for utterly filthy engine internals.

[ZR]

Case in point, modding my own to remove the factory oil cooler which is really an oil heater plus addition of an external cooler, been far better able to control max temps along with how long it takes to reach them. I still need a slightly larger cooler and a thermostat to control it (cooler is here, remote stat for it arrived on Monday), with that I'll be able to go back to the stock thermostat which will in turn bring coolant temps back to optimum, same for oil temps all the while being able to beat it on the road course without and concern of overheating.
All of my other attempts to better control it were directed solely on the cooling system with results that varied between moderate to no difference at all. Those included, huge rad and reservoir, huge intercooler and reservoir, cooler higher flow thermostat, fan set to come on early, etc. Feel pretty strongly that I may have been able to stay with all the stock stuff had I moved towards the oil cooler mod first. Bought into the whole this rad / stat / intercooler will lower your temps x degrees etc. All it meant was the engine spent too much time running at temps that are not conducive to long engine life.
With coolant temps finally under control, I'm ready to install the killer chiller which will lower IAT's and keep the engine closer to max h/p no matter the temps outside. Mission accomplished but it's be a fairly expensive lesson.