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I'm looking to put a tubular k member in my fox (89). But i have 94/95 spindles and lower control arms.
Would like to keep all that on the car and just add the k frame. And keep the wheels in the same spot..
And i will be mostly drag racing this car.
But trust me on the sunscreen !!
Hows about fox lower control arm and 94/95 spindles.. I,ve read so much on right and wrong my head is spinning..
But trust me on the sunscreen !!
SN95 control arms are app 1" longer than Fox arms and are also a little heavier. The spindles will work on either, possibly with a balljoint change on the FOx arms.
Some aftermarket K members don't work with OEM arms, some do. I would get a matching package with tubular arms (save about 15 lbs on avg) coilovers and cc plates if you haven't already done so. If you drive the car on the street, some of the drag only members are not as strong as the road racing ones.
I,m trying to run 17x9 up front (street) but they stick out more then i like.. Some say you can run fox arms with 94 spindles, but might have bump steer and camber problem,s. I'd like to kick your ass around that road course bro.. lol
But trust me on the sunscreen !!
I have Fox arms, 1994 spindles, 17x9 with 255/40/17s on the front, tucked inside '87 fendersOriginally Posted by onDjuice
The bumpsteer is not terrible, but it could likely be improved. That's why a tubular k member should have a coil over setup and a properly installed bump steer kit, alignment and corner weighting.
To whoop my ass all you need to do is show up in a rental 4 door; I have very good on the edge car control but zero discipline to tie together a good lap. Would love a day at TMP in the wet; that would separate the men from the mice.
So far my best time on vid is 1:28 (out of 4 laps recorded); might have gone faster solo on one of the other 40 laps in Sept. NT01 tires are old and worn, but miles better than my NT555's.
Biggest problem is the 4.10 gear ratio and poor power delivery. Both of those will be fixed before April 30.
U have a OEM 04 cobra k-member with fox length team-Z a-arms, sn95 spindels, and cobra brakes. I run 18x9 (5.5 BS I can verify) out front with CC plates and QA1 coilovers. Could stick with the stock k-member. which honestly is nicer on the street. K-members are noisy but the do lighten the car up.
It's only the 96 and up spindles that cause the issues, 94 and 95 are what you need. Use fox length arms and you'll be good.
Just make sure that you match your K member with tubular arms....don't mix and match. BUT I just bought MM non offset arms that when used with the stock K member keep the wheel in the stock position, but when used with a MM K member will move the wheel forward 3/4".
I highly suggest using MM's site to learn about Fox front end geometry and what parts to use. For instance, when you move to 94/95 spindles, you increase your bump travel which on a lowered Fox is a great thing but depending on how low you want the car, you can't use a 10" spring on a coilover as it may be too short. Blah blah blah...lol.....their site will answer most of your questions.
^^ Hey Norm that's why I traded you the rims years ago the 9" didn't fit my black notch.
I got some fox lowers today need bushing and i'll install them.. Hope the bump steer isn't to bad.
But trust me on the sunscreen !!
Where was the clearance issue? How is your bumpsteer being affected?
Energy Suspension polys are great bushings; mine lasted 20 yrs and 400 000 km in my old SVO clone and were still perfect
17x9 wheels w 255/40 17, Fox arms, 1995 spindles, 1987 OEM k member:
bump steer will depend a lot on how low your car is. Also make sure that at ride height the front swaybar ends (not the links) are parallel to the ground; aka the bar is neutrally situated. This is usually done by shortening the end links the same amount the car was lowered.
bar_____
I end link
I
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control arm / ground plane
ie) like in the above technical drawing lol
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