Someone please school me quick on 302 blocks

[b1lk1]

OK, got a E7TE on a stand in good shape, great crosshatching still visible, was in a truck. Realistically I'll never get past a cam swap and GT40 heads so piston type not important? This engine came out of a F150.

I do have a 87 H.O block in my car, but it's down on compression. It has the Bcam and all my other stuff in it (gt40 heads/yada).

Is there any reason to care if the truck motor has cast or forged? I would think it doesn't. Can I use the stock E7 head rockers with a B Cam?

I also have a HO cam I will likely be using, depends on the wear of the B Cam when I pull it out.

Any advice what else to check, I'm pulling the oil pan tomorrow, oil drained out was relatively clean. I need to learn SBF fast, I am a transformed chevy luver, but I always loved the Notch the best.

[Tailites]

the "b" cam should have no wear...its a roller cam

dont worry about the cast pistons...some guys have had great success running boost with no issues

I used to be concerned about cast...until I found info to the contrary...forged is still stronger tho

you can use the stock rockers with the "b"...but why would you?...toss in a set of cranes or similar

replace the valve springs...see whats cheap...comps are good if you can find a deal

while its apart...toss in there a new timing chain & sprockets...theyre cheap

stick with the GT40s heads...theyre good...you dont need the "p" head...(a little difference in spark plug location)

& supposedly you need different headers...I have no experience here

use un equal shorties...you DO NOT NEED LONG TUBES...although there are some performance gains

the shorties will let you have some torque

make sure you have enough piston to valve clearance (tons of info,,,google)

[tulowd]

1) Some good head gaskets and ARP head bolts, or better yet - ARP head studs are a cheap insurance investment. Last 2 motors also used main cap ARP studs.

2) Oil pan baffle and windage tray while its out/apart; I always used a new Ford high volume oil pump whenever the motor was apart; I know some builders disagree with that and say standard

3) ARP oil pump shaft ($20 !!); also check the gear on the distributor to make sure it works with the roller cam

4) I always have mine balanced, but that might be more than what you're looking to do; app $ 350.

Don't forget the SBF is factory balanced to that idiotic 28 or 50 oz imbalance; unlike you spoiled chevy guys, lol.
Can't usually internally zero balance an SBF without $ 1000 worth of Mallory metal or changing cranks; usually acompanied by a new damper and flywheel

1-5/8" full length headers make a lot more top end power than shorties on a mild motor like this, but are way more work and you will lose torque. Depends on your gear too; 3.73 or 4.10s scream for long tubes IMO. Some headers are 5 spd or Auto trans only, so make sure you're clear.

Hope that helps a bit.

[B-blown]

I would listen to DW to an extent my son has hurt 2 302 truck motors one HO and one 86 motor but both were bearing failures and we still don`t know why

[Tailites]

I would listen to DW to an extent my son has hurt 2 302 truck motors one HO and one 86 motor but both were bearing failures and we still don`t know why

excessive clearance...eg old motors

or lack of oil...&

heres my fave...

detonation that hammers on the bearings

or a combination of the above...on some Ive had apart...

surprisingly even tho bearings were not the best...the cranks were fair & re useable

[b1lk1]

I have gt40'swith ARP studs, they are double sprung and done up as much as you can really, BBK longtubes, B 303, Edlebrock intake, 70mmBBK TB/CAI, Ford 70mmMAF, 1.7 Crane rockers, ill add more if I remember. Car has 3:55's now, spins tires endlessly in first 3 gears, although tires are crap.

It does have a brand new oil pump on it, got it from someone trustworthy, it is exactly as described. I was thinking girdle and such, will look into that now.

There is alot of blow by getting into the oil with the motor that's in the car, the 87 HO motor. Otherwise all my parts are coming off it and going onto this block. Low compression in a couple cylinders too, got it from someone who over-boosted it and I took a chance although I paid almost nothing for the shortblock.

Gonna do some more welding on my frame when I pull the motor back out too. I was gonna drive it but there's no way it's gonna pass e-test with 2 bad cylinders.

[tulowd]

Assume you checked the bores for taper and out of roundness before you do anything else; but sounds like you're good to go...assuming all the parts will fit into that block. Some engine guys won't build a SBF without line honing the mains, especially if you're gonna stud and girdle the bottom end.

[b1lk1]

Well, tough to say I'll even go that far, I wish I could build a stroker and so forth, but my budget is really tight. More likely the bottom end will remain stock. At this point, all I really need to buy is head gaskets to swap all my parts to the new motor, have all the other parts/gaskets on hand.

[ZR]

No need to crazy with parts if your intention is a milder build. Good gaskets and decent head bolts (studs if you can afford) along with careful assembly and you'll be golden.

[ZR]

Be sure to add a decent set of valve springs to your list with that cam. Contact Slope, he can give you the part number for a drop in no nonsense spring that will do you well. An HD shaft for the oil pump is also money well spent. Pump, stick to stock OEM Ford.