Suspension upgrading

[b1lk1]

OK, I need to upgrade my suspension. Stock control arms combined with drop springs that are far too low for my old ass means I need to get this done. I am working with a really restrictive budget, was thinking of boxing the rear control arms myself and getting a full poly bushing kit for the whole car. Was looking at springs, how would the Ford Racing B of C springs work in my car? Car will see 99% street, I'm going to Mosport this summer and if I'm really lucky I'm going to Cayuga a few times before summers end.

I don't need a road race ready car, I have LOTS of work left to do to my car. But these springs need to go now, lol!

[HyperGT]

you may need new shocks and struts. Stockers rarly can handle the additional spring rates and cause the car to bottom out, ride rough and drop too low. What springs are you running now? Contol arms, while improve handling will have very little impact on ride height - unless rear weight jacker style.

[RedSN]

What springs are in the car now?
I wouldn't put poly bushings in the upper control arm, leave them stock.
Good set of quality dampers will go a long way.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

SFC's first if you don't have any. Stock Upper Control arms. Boxed lowers with poly bushings if you can do the work yourself would be a decent upgrade on a budget. Springs, I only recommend H&R for a Fox as they always work amazing. Then a decent set of Shocks/Struts to match the rate of your springs. Oh, and if you can swing it, CC plates as the added caster you can achieve makes a big difference in how the car tracks on the road. If you keep an eye out, shocks/struts and possibly springs could be had used for a great deal. Same with CC plates. If you can also get a set of bushings for the front lower control arms that would be helpful as well. Oh, another cheap but good mod are poly STOCK offset bushings for your steering rack ($20).

[b1lk1]

Right now I have Drop Zone springs, they are semi-fresh and the car is quite low/stiff. I have yet to bottom out my longtubes, although I don't have alot of seat time. It also has a bump steer(?) kit for the outer tie rods. Front tires are 215/65/15 and rears are getting changed. Also have welded in subframe connectors.

As for boxing control arms, was wondering if that allowed removal of quad shocks.

I also need shocks/struts, just starting to figure this stuff out. For my taste, my car is too low, I like the idea of the Ford Racing B/C springs as they are for little drop yet better spring rates.

I have all the tools I need and will do all the work, I can even personally align it at my friends shop.

I cannot afford $1K kits, I'm hoping to do alot of backyard improvements, not expecting results using good parts, just stuff to tighten it up as much as possible.

[Ghost Rider]

what type of car is this? I thought we were talking about a 197

[ZR]

Fox stuff with a huge bang for the buck pay off.

2 x KYB shocks
2 x KYB struts
1 x Eibach Pro Kit (or MM road and track if your more performance minded)
2 x MM rear lower arms (uppers if in good shape are ok for now / go to '99 up or FMS uppers when $ allows)
1 x MM alum rack bushings
1 x MM Caster camber plates
1 x Install (yes quads can bite the dust)
1 x Alignment
1000 x Enjoy your brand new feeling car

Of course all of the above should only be done after a set of properly installed Steeda full length sub frame connectors

[tulowd]

1) tighten the front chassis with at least a G load brace - the 4 pt MM is the best one out there; their shock tower brace as well; makes steering quicker/tighter
2) replace front control arm bushings w/ polyurethane; make sure all swaybar bushings are good and the bar ends at rest are parallel to the ground with the correct end link length
3) good shocks and real springs (the better the shocks the better the ride) 5300 C's are nice but need real shocks
4) if car is lowered, replace the pinion snubber rubber portion with the one from MM otherwise you're riding on the stock loaf of bread, lol
5) tubular lower rear control arms; the MM or Global West are the way to go if you have the $$ (upper arms stock or 99+ GT forget urethane or ull rip ur floor)
6) Panhard bar - MM or Steeda

[b1lk1]

what type of car is this? I thought we were talking about a 197

1988 Notch.

[RAT ATK]

I don't think you can run a 4-point G-load brace with long tubes.