Suspension upgrading

[RedSN]

Just wondering out loud if I need springs right away to get it to corner properly, not happy with current springs other than the fact I own them.

I was curious, so I tried looking up "Drop Zone Suspension" springs in hope of finding out what the spring rate is.
Could not find ANY information online.

So....only one way to find out: try them out on the track and see what happens.
You may end up being the new owner of the "Lean Machine" title

[b1lk1]

If there is one thing they don't do is lean, they are quite tight. Only info I can find online is that they tend to drop our cars 2.5-3" which is just too low, but I can't just run out and buy a new set at the moment either. Once the diff stops riding on the snubber (have small urethane coming) I'll likely have a better idea of how compliant they are overall, but I know my front struts have to go whether or not I use these springs. My shocks are OK for now, but the struts are cooked.

[b1lk1]

Out with the old, in with the new. Had to go a cheaper route, so much needs to be changed that it made expensive parts unaffordable. I left the old bushings in the rear end eye holes, although at the very least I am ordering new rubber ones. I am really considering spherical bushings there, they are only about $120 to my door. I already had poly isolators for the springs. Shocks are both blown. Same for the Quads, they had nothing left in them. I tossed them in the trash heap, not putting quads back in.

Ordering struts, shocks and a couple more bushings Tuesday, right around $400 more (UGH!). Already spend about $350 on the suspension (including that new MM snubber for my super low car, lol). Urethane rack bushings are already in, I have all the bushings for the front swaybar too. Removing the control arms for their new bushings today.

I can't wait to see how this feels, it was always loose before. Rear lower control arm bushings were gonzo. Also, rear was about 1/2" forward on the drivers side, that is now also fixed.

Gotta get it on an alignment rack to see if I need CC plates, really not wanting the expense, but am just expecting it.....

[b1lk1]

Entire right front suspension disassembled, ball joint is also no good. Driver's ball joint was replaced (it was not pressed in properly, I had to fix that last year). What a slugfest for 3 hours tearing it down, everything was happy right where it was. Managed to get control arm bolts bushing out, they are still in great shape too. Will be attacking the driver's side tomorrow. Ordering everything to get the front done tomorrow, I'm on a June 1st deadline if I want to make it to Mosport like planned..

So happy the entire rear suspension is now done and buttoned up. Just need to re-bleed the brakes but will do that when it's time to put all the tires on as the fluid needs a good flush.

Anyone that thinks their bushings are still in good shape if they have the originals is just kidding themselves. What little cracking that I could see was trumped by the major cracking/separation of the insides of the bushings. I'm talking all four corners too.

[b1lk1]

OK, quick question: Am I better off with new rubber bushings in the rear axle eye holes or spherical? I'm running tubular control arms with Urethane bushings, but I left the original bushings in the rear end eye holes, they weren't torn. I want to replace them and am torn. Everything I read says just use rubber there, is that the general consensus here too?

My shocks/struts are here with all their new mounts so I am getting ready to button up the suspension this week.

[ZR]

Yes rubber at the diff end for a street car. Also, strongly suggest you stick with either '99GT or FMS upper arms only. Poly or similar is brutal on the torque boxes because of the bind it creates.

[b1lk1]

I am going to weld in a bunch of reinforcement for lower and upper torque boxes. I already have the interior removed, just gotta get my ass in gear.

I'm gonna order a new set of rubber bushings, they do need to be changed, no way they are not dry and hard as they are definitely original. I'm sure most will disagree, but I am keeping the tubular uppers with the Urethane bushing. I just cannot afford to replace them with anything else, even getting the bushings and a ball joint (these parts just gotta be replaced) will completely drain my fund for the car for parts for the summer. I spent $2K in 3 1/2 weeks...........

[ZR]

JMO, would stick the stock uppers back in first.