Loading...
|
No reason why not but careful attention to correct length is important. If block is anything but perfect and starter can load directly from below (sometimes means pulled converter shield off) pair of grade 8 studs gently bottomed in the holes works well.
Thanks. At least then it’s movable until the proper ones come in.
In my eyes, grade 8 bolts the correct length are a permanent fix.
Agree with Rick, grade 8/ 10.9 is a permanent solution. There is 12.9 available, but grade 8 is top dog in imperial hardware
Well that was about as much fun as I thought it was going to be.
Manual says to remove the 2 bolts on the heat shield. The next instruction should be “bend it the fuck out of the way”. Got the starter out using some kind of contortionism. But could not get the new one back in until I rage bent the shield way back.
New starter cranks like mad!
-Don____________
Nice it’s fixed. Surprised the heat shield bolts came out. If I was doing it every one would have snapped off
If I remember correctly the olds aroura had the starter in the valley between the heads. Had to pull the intake. GIANT PITA.
^^^yep, the caddy northstar v8, done a few of them.
It’s funny you don’t know how bad the old starter is until you hear the new one spin over 4 times as fast.
Replaced the starter on my car this summer. Had 1994 stamped on it. It was due.
Stock engine Fox equipped with the Maximum Motorsports catalog. Now I have lots of Trick Flow stickers.
Well, that lasted 2 years. The exact same problem occurred this morning. Moved the truck out of the garage, then 10 minutes later I went to go put it back in and “click”. Nothing. A few minutes later, it cranked over and started no problem. Pretending like nothing had ever happened.
-Don____________