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Thread: Lowered on stock shocks n struts.

  1. #11
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fast Ed View Post
    Stock Fox struts and shocks were crap when brand new. I changed them at around 15000 km on my 87 back in the day, swapping in Koni reds which were single adjustable back then, and FRPP 5300-C springs. Even though the front springs were linear rate and much stiffer than the originals, it rode better (and handled way better) than stock.


    cheers
    Ed
    Yes barely adequate when you drove it off the lot.

  2. #12
    Member hsousa88's Avatar
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    Very happy with my bilstein/mm springs combo. Pricey but worth it.

    Now to convert to coilover.. Someday.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '88 LX

  3. #13
    Super Moderator Scrape's Avatar
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    Coilovers are always a great choice in my mind. H&R, Eibach, KW, Ohlin make some mighty fine products. But just the strut shock upgrade combo Rick mentioned the two best for the money. Eventually I will install the coilover conversion kit from KW for my car since it has Bilstein adjustables on there already and being able to adjust the height is a big bonus for me.

  4. #14
    Boomer605
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    This year, more than ever, we've had mustang after mustang in previously lowered on stock shocks n struts complaining they couldn't take the rough ride anymore. Just like I've told the rest, take that barely adequate for stock springs crap off there and lay down your dough on some quality dampers. Just like Glen was last week, you will be flat out amazed at how much ride and handling you've been giving up............G U A R A N T E E D!
    Yes I always put Bilsteins n Koni's (only single / double adjustable) at the top of the heap.

    Are we taking Fox bodies in particular, or all body styles? I've got Steeda Sport Springs on my lowered '10 GT with the factory dampers and am happy with the ride. I do wonder whether there would be an improvement by pairing the Steeda springs with Steeda dampers. Any thoughts?

  5. #15
    Mustang Occasionally
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    I'm Eibach pro kit springs and front and rear sways on stock struts and shocks and I'm really happy with the ride and the performance.

  6. #16
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    Installing the Bilsteins all the way around on my 98 Cobra vert tomorrow. Can't wait to feel the difference. Doing the install myself. First time doing so, so if you have any tips ZR, I'm all ears. Looks like a pretty straight forward job. Only thing I was wondering was whether or not the brake Caliper/pads have to come off and....when tightening down the nut on the top of the strut, do you use an impact gun to get it started...then torque it down? Guess I'll also need to take it in for an alignment afterwards?

  7. #17
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boomer605 View Post
    Are we taking Fox bodies in particular, or all body styles? I've got Steeda Sport Springs on my lowered '10 GT with the factory dampers and am happy with the ride. I do wonder whether there would be an improvement by pairing the Steeda springs with Steeda dampers. Any thoughts?
    Yet to see one that doesn't feel better paired up to new shocks n struts. Would however be interested to hear your feedback if / when you do yours.

  8. #18
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gr8Stang View Post
    Installing the Bilsteins all the way around on my 98 Cobra vert tomorrow. Can't wait to feel the difference. Doing the install myself. First time doing so, so if you have any tips ZR, I'm all ears. Looks like a pretty straight forward job. Only thing I was wondering was whether or not the brake Caliper/pads have to come off and....when tightening down the nut on the top of the strut, do you use an impact gun to get it started...then torque it down? Guess I'll also need to take it in for an alignment afterwards?
    On most, can sneak in around the caliper with a short socket and extension and give it hell with the impact. On some you can't and yes at that point caliper needs to be removed. Tightening top nut on the strut, I run them down by hand with the help of a small wrench to prevent the strut rod from turning. Once snug, give it a single burp with the impact. Tend to do the top on the rears the same way.
    On Koni adjustables, must be tightened fully by hand only.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    On most, can sneak in around the caliper with a short socket and extension and give it hell with the impact. On some you can't and yes at that point caliper needs to be removed. Tightening top nut on the strut, I run them down by hand with the help of a small wrench to prevent the strut rod from turning. Once snug, give it a single burp with the impact. Tend to do the top on the rears the same way.
    On Koni adjustables, must be tightened fully by hand only.
    Thank you sir! I believe the top of the strut rod also has a torx or hex type hole in it to help keep the rod from turning, so may just use that to do the final tightening. Heard you don't want to spin the rod too much or you could break the seals? Fingers crossed I can get those strut lower bolts off without too much trouble. A little penetrating oil I guess before I get started.

  10. #20
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    Got the Bilsteins installed and couldn't be happier. The car was purchased brand new with the Eibach Pro kit lowering springs installed and the stocker struts/shocks. Night and day now with the Bilsteins in there. And good news....didn't have to pull the Caliper off to get at those bolts. Did apply some penetrating oil, but still required some hard hits with the impact gun before they finally broke loose. Only other hassle was in the trunk...getting the cardboard carpeting removed from the top resulted in 2 of 3 broken retaining plastic pins. Also had to make a trip to crappy tire for a 17 mm ratcheting wrench....to get the rear shock top nuts fastened (while using an allen wrench on the top of the shock rod to keep it from turning). Only freaking ratcheting wrench I didn't have!!

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