Rod through the block, no thanksOriginally Posted by allicedout
Don't give up..... You'll get there eventually!
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Rod through the block, no thanksDon't give up..... You'll get there eventually!
What's the current tire height, and what is your rpm going through the traps as is stands (and which gear) you need to optimize gear and tire height to take advantage of the power you have, it doest help having a steeper gear if you hit redline 50feet before the traps.
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From the online calculators (http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm) I'm seeing just under 5000rpm the way it sits now. 3.55 gear, approximately 27" tire if it's near stock size and 109mph through the traps.
Plugging in 4.10 gears, a 26" slick and 109mph is just about 5800rpm through the traps, but doesn't take into account the bias ply growth. So slightly less in reality.
In an ideal world you want to finish up the 1/4 a few hundred RPM past your shift point. So if the shift point is an even 6000rpm, even with 4.10 gears it's still slightly under-geared.
These calculators would be based on no slippage and a 1:1 ratio (typically 4th gear). If it was an automatic set-up, then there would be more RPM due to the converter. I've found them to be pretty close in the past.
I trapped 109 NA and have 4.10s with a 26" tire, I know for sure with boost he's at least 115 or higher (I am anticipating 120 or just above with my setup and am likely going to have to run a 28 or 29" tire.
I would run a 15" Et Street R. Its a dot legal drag radial. They are an amazing tire. I have cut a best 60 ft of 1.29 with them. I'd work on getting the car to hook, every tenth in the sixty equals 2 in the quarter. Those bfg's arent helping you, start with tires and then start chipping away at the rest.
Going by what be posted he's running 109mph with the blower from his original post. Just using the info I was given to plug in the calculators. Plugging in a 115mph trap speed without factoring in tire growth, puts trap RPMs at about 6000rpm with the 4.10's.
Ron, I'd like to try a set of the new R's myself, but the automatic and radials go together so well, my only concern in this case is recovery on a spin. I know the bias ply tires and manual will still push forward even with some spin.
I am going to give the BFG a another few tries once my rear end is rebuild and redone
def doing 3.73 during the rebuild process.
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Should I go with a 26" tall tire or 28" tall tire? I have a 1.5" drop in the rear with Ford racing k spring.
Not enough power or gear to warrant a 28" tire, stay with the 26" tire, it will work best at this point.
Next time out with the BFG's, drop the pressures low and cook them in the burnout. With my limited experience with them they like to be treated almost like a slick, whereas an MT drag radial like more pressure and less heat.
Here's some food for thought...when I had my 85 I was at the track almost every weekend. On real street tires it ran 13.20's@109. On drag radials it ran 12.80's@109, on et streets it ran 12.40's @109. This was a stick car as well.
As TC has mentioned....stick with a 26" tall bias tire, you'll get quicker times and they're easier on the driveline when used on a stick car.
Et street r is available in both radial and bias, the ones given as measurements are bias the ones shown as traditional tire sizing are the radial and same compound as the et street pro 275 tires.
I didn't notice the 109 trap speed, was that in the heat? Seems low as I ran the same with 330ish HP. (Trap speed is about power independent from ET)
Go to the track with Ron he'll inspire the f*ck out of you and you will push the car into the 11s, super nice guy with a wicked car.
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