Battery Relocation

[Tailites]

BMW battery mount. Read on a forum about a recall due to shorting out which in turn cuts engine power. No system that is absolutely fail safe. What some moving the battery to take wt off the front also forget, factoring in the wt of the x tra cable, box and related bits. Gains are not as large as one might think.

pretty sad...

maybe the ultimate solution is the Braille battery in the stock location

NOT in the rear at all

[1BAD92LX]

As far as cable goes, I already have a 4awg running to the back for my stereo, so once I remove that and add in the cable for the battery weight gain should be very minimal. I am also sure ill be leaving my solenoid in the front.

Or leave the 4awg for the alt to battery (fused). Larger wire just in case alt goes bad as Rick stated.
Move solenoid to trunk and run a 0/1awg like you going to anyway?

[ZR]

Or leave the 4awg for the alt to battery (fused). Larger wire just in case alt goes bad as Rick stated.
Move solenoid to trunk and run a 0/1awg like you going to anyway?

+1.
Since amp is close to the battery, no longer need for that, switch duty to supply for the rest of the ride and add 0/1 as Brad suggested.
Safe and secure.

[ZR]

pretty sad...

maybe the ultimate solution is the Braille battery in the stock location

NOT in the rear at all

+1 on that idea.

[Speedtospare]

Just for reference. TMP nor London ever gave me any problems with my car running 11.50's. No cage, rear mounted batter with no external switch. Battery is mounted well but in a Maine case which some places dont accept as well.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Just for reference. TMP nor London ever gave me any problems with my car running 11.50's. No cage, rear mounted batter with no external switch. Battery is mounted well but in a Maine case which some places dont accept as well.

That's good to know...I was a little worried about that since I won't be putting in an external switch.

[B-blown]

my car has the 2 fuses one after the alt before heading back and one at the back by battery ....it was done this way when I bought the car and see no need to change it... my battery cable inside the interior under the carpet then out thru firewall at the pass side wheelwell (again as I purchased it) but mines not a true DD either but does see street use

[NickD]

I think I have a good fuse block for you and some 0g ring terminals and stuff left over from my car audio stuff, its all just seeming counter productive adding more weight and wiring....
I'll just leave this right here again (look up this vs the braile or copys)
http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-PC680-.../dp/B0002ILK6I

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Just checked a few things. The PC680 is 15lbs.
My stock Kirkland battery that I literally just weighed is 29.9lbs
14ft of 1/0 wire is 4.5lbs
Then you have to add the weight of the box for the trunk etc. At $113 US for the PC680 and about $150 for a good relocation kit the PC680 would be the way to go.

Would just have to figure out how to mount the PC680.

[NickD]

they make a lot of boxes for it, if yours is the same as the s197 ones people have found ways to utilize the sock bottom and ad a new hole in the strap so you can switch back an forth