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maxwell6
03-28-2017, 08:17 AM
Could really use some help trying to figure this problem out. Was on my way into work last friday morning, got off the highway stopped at lights all is good . Take off 1st gear 2nd gear accelerating not very hard about 2000 rpm and bog, get off throttle and back on easy seems ok. So tried to get on it a bit again and same bog like it wants to stall. At this point idle was fine just could not get on it hard. I work in Toronto and live in Sutton so drove easy on way home and made it ok but still can not accelerate hard or it will now bog and stall. So checked MAF it was wet with moisture so cleaned with sensor cleaner, pulled air filter cleaned,pulled throttle body cleaned with throttle body cleaner, replaced fuel filter. After this started up fine but idle is not consistent will serge and still can not get on it or it will stall. Btw also changed the FRPS with a spare one that i had. Any sugestions would be welcome at this point,Thanks for any help. Sorry for such a long thread.

ZR
03-28-2017, 08:18 AM
What yr / mods you working on?

maxwell6
03-28-2017, 08:36 AM
Sorry about that Its a 02 gt vortech sc 4.6 2v

ZR
03-28-2017, 08:41 AM
Didn't you have some odd fuel issues last year?
What pumps etc?
Assume it's tuned?

Laffs
03-28-2017, 09:13 AM
Do you have access to a fuel pressure guage, whats the pressure at rail with key on? How long does it take to lose pressure with key off? What is your fuel pump setup?

Sounds very very very similar to mine when it has pump/line issues.

maxwell6
03-28-2017, 09:21 AM
Yes i did I swapped out the pumps for dual GT supercar pumps dual fpdm and wiring mod,with bap. I find it hard to believe the pumps are worn out so soon. When checking fuel pressure im getting 34 to 36 psi at idle and not dropping out. That is reading the gauge on the engine. I dont have one in car so not sure what it is doing under load. But when idle was up and down the gauge pressure maintained.

maxwell6
03-28-2017, 09:44 AM
BTW it also had the pprv delete done.

maxwell6
03-28-2017, 09:47 AM
And thats with a 03 tank and hat returnless system.

Laffs
03-28-2017, 10:01 AM
Did you check to see how fast the pressure bled off with key off? When you did the pump upgrade did you use regular high pressure fuel line or the good submersible stuff from NAPA or online? I had a bad batch of the submersible stuff which let one of the feed hoses burst. The car would start, idle, show slightly low 30's erratic PSI on the gauge. As soon as load was put on the car would buck and surge. Key off the fuel system would lose all pressure which lead me to suspect the leak.

maxwell6
03-28-2017, 10:38 AM
I will check when I get home Laffs. I did think the pressure bled off fast with key off. How long should it take to bleed off with key off. And yes i did use the high pressure line. Thanks

ZR
03-28-2017, 10:40 AM
Did you use submersible high pressure hose?
It's specific for in tank use, regular high pressure will burst in a very short time.

Laffs
03-28-2017, 10:45 AM
Did you use submersible high pressure hose?
It's specific for in tank use, regular high pressure will burst in a very short time.

Exactly this. Has to be rated submersible (Sae30R10 or so I beleive) not just for high pressure.

Also on my car with no PPRV it still takes well over 30 minutes for the pressure to bleed down (that's when the damn fuel line isn't burst)

ZR
03-28-2017, 10:55 AM
With PPRV delete, bleed down pretty fast.
Many with PPRV in place experience lean spikes when shifting under higher loads / rpm. Odd part, many have the problem while others get by with it in place just fine. My former GT with PPRV in place running Focus pump, lean pop n backfire if I made a firm to hard pull, no issue once deleted. Have a pile of GT's n Cobra running around out there with em still in place experiencing no problems. I do however alway ssuggest removing it, only downside is extended cranking times on cold start along with some experience somewhat erratic idle for the few 30 maybe 45 seconds on cold start. On my own Cobra, slightly extended cold start crank time but runs mine soon as it fires (Fore' returnless hat 2 x Supercar pumps / dual drivers)

Laffs
03-28-2017, 11:02 AM
With a leak, your bleed down will basically be instant. Mine has no pprv and there is still a noticeable bleed down time with key off.

Also, did you determine what the source of the moisture was on the MAF? Are you running an oiled filter element? PCV all hooked up and running stock vortech plastic intake or a Powerpipe style?

maxwell6
03-28-2017, 01:23 PM
Running a power pipe style, and yes my bleed down is instant will drop tank and check everything out thanks for the advice will keep you posted.

Laffs
03-28-2017, 01:26 PM
Worth a look for sure as its only two bolts on the straps and what, 9 top hat bolts to drop and inspect tank. I've been battling fuel line issues on my car for a couple years. Ended up finding the oem style corrugated hose to replace all my in-tank stuff with.

Good luck, hope its something easy like a burst line that can easily be remedied.

Laffs
04-03-2017, 09:09 AM
Ever find your issue?

ZR
04-03-2017, 11:42 AM
Where did you find that stuff?

Ended up finding the oem style corrugated hose to replace all my in-tank stuff with.

Laffs
04-03-2017, 12:48 PM
Where did you find that stuff?

Ended up finding the oem style corrugated hose to replace all my in-tank stuff with.

Summit racing, sold under the ATL brand as corrugated fuel tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/atl-corrugated-fuel-tubes?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int

maxwell6
04-04-2017, 10:55 AM
Well not sure removed the pumps found both pumps not holding pressure, I can easily blow through them in both directions. I have a spare set that i cant blow through so going to try them out. Just waiting on a new pair of socks. All lines appeared to be good. And it is the corrugated stuff. The pumps I took out are gt pumps i bought last summer appears their blown already. I will update when its all back together. Thanks for the help.

ZR
04-04-2017, 04:39 PM
Positive you ended up with returnless pumps?

ZR
04-04-2017, 04:40 PM
Summit racing, sold under the ATL brand as corrugated fuel tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/atl-corrugated-fuel-tubes?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int

Mint, thank you Sir.

maxwell6
04-05-2017, 08:04 AM
I hope they were but would they have lasted as long as they did, or would i have found out right away. I did order for returnless system. I will look up the part number and make sure.

ZR
04-05-2017, 08:19 AM
Wrong pumps, you read about some failing or not working correctly right from the get go while others hang in for a time. By any chance you running a Boost A Pump or similar? Been involved with more than one that was a pump eater.

Laffs
04-05-2017, 10:04 AM
Mint, thank you Sir.

No problem. I found the easiest way to install them was to stick the ends in boiling water to expand them. They slide right on in that case. Once cooled and clamped they're not coming off without being cut.

ZR
04-05-2017, 10:16 AM
Boiling water, excellent idea. :)

maxwell6
04-06-2017, 07:40 AM
Yes am running a Boost a pump was thinking the same bap killing pumps. Going to go forward from here.

ZR
04-06-2017, 07:45 AM
With dual supercar pumps and dual FPDMs, absolutely no upside to running a Boost a Pump or similar. Mine makes 600 flat at the tires and is no where close to being maxed out on fuel (Fore' hat / dual supercar pumps + dual FPDMs).

ZR
04-06-2017, 07:46 AM
While it's apart, also worth checking polarity to both pumps is correct.

maxwell6
04-07-2017, 09:59 AM
Thanks ZR I did check polarity and it is correct. I will not be using the bap anymore.

ZR
04-07-2017, 11:36 AM
Sounds like your on the right track.
Tune will need to be checked / touched up with BAP off though

maxwell6
04-08-2017, 12:51 PM
Update installed new pumps still having same problem. Checked and pulled codes and found 01233 and p1237. Is it possible they are both bad.

maxwell6
04-09-2017, 02:18 PM
Ok so here we go. After pulling the MAF yesterday I found it wet. So remover the intercooler and found water inside. Seems my air filter sucked up water and deposited it in the intercooler. So whenever I accelerated slightly hard water would suck up coat the MAF and stall out. So removed the intercooler cleaned and dried it out,cleaned the MAF, and piping all is good again running like a champ. So thanks for all your help. I was almost embarrassed:slap: to say what it was.

Blackmare
04-09-2017, 03:13 PM
Cool that you figured it out. That's the main thing.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Laffs
04-10-2017, 09:45 AM
Hopefully no water found its way inside the engine, glad you found the source issue.

maxwell6
04-11-2017, 07:55 AM
Dont think any got threw oil looks good and running good ,except for a p0102 code keeps poping up. Wondering if the water ruined my MAF. Removed it and it was dry, cleaned it again with MAF cleaner drove from Sutton to Toronto no code shut it down to get fuel restarted and it came back.

Laffs
04-11-2017, 09:24 AM
MAF's are very sensitive to moisture, they don't even recommend an oiled filter with them, highly possible water could damage it seriously.

maxwell6
04-11-2017, 03:24 PM
Yeah my thoughts exactly,New one on the way.

maxwell6
04-18-2017, 08:16 AM
Installed my new MAF cleared codes and all is good,so that was 1 BA5000 down the toilet.Car is running good. Thanks for all the help and support.:mechanic:

ZR
04-18-2017, 11:54 AM
Good to hear you've got it sorted out.

maxwell6
04-18-2017, 03:18 PM
Thanks ZR