Car Audio Questions/Input Needed

[Laffs]

So, since I'm bored out of my skull at home lately and because I apparently hate the concept of "Saving Money" (TF is that anyway) been toying with the idea of replacing some of the stereo components that have been in the Mustang since I bought it in 2008.

Currently running:

Alpine IVA-D106 HU (because flip out screens were cool once)
Alpine Type S front components (6x8) driven off HU
Alpine Type E rear speakers (6x8) driven off HU
JL 500/1 mono Amp
Alpine Type R 10" Sub (4ohm DVC) in an off the shelf sealed box 1.3 cu or so I THINK

Basically the finest car audio I could purchase using friends Best Buy discounts and gifts cards in the mid 2000's. Obviously it's a pretty bass heavy system but it was 2008 and...........yeah.

Thinking to level it out more I'd like to replace the slash series mono amp with a decent 5 channel to drive the existing sub and also amp and do new components front and rear. I've read reviews and come up with this:

Amp - Kenwood-Excelon-X802

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_113X8025/Kenwood-Excelon-X802-5.html

Fronts - Rockford-Fosgate R152 5 1/4's

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_575R152S/Rockford-Fosgate-R152-S.html

Rears - Rockford-Fosgate R165 6.5's

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_575R165S/Rockford-Fosgate-R165-S.html?tp=73303&l=Q

While I accept this isn't anything crazy high end and my source unit is fucking ANCIENT will this provide what could be called a good to better sound? Also does anyone have any recommendations of alternate equipment in the similar price range?

[SlipperyVic]

How are the current front speakers installed? Was the speaker simply replaced, or replaced with a bit of dynomat thrown in the door?.

Was the door fully treated? inside door treated with dynomat, door fully sealed and than covered in mlv, and finally the outer door car sealed to the new speaker?.
I would imagine not since the speakers are not currently amplified. I would suggest starting out with looking into the install technique because this can make a massive difference in performance no matter which speakers you have in there.

That amp gives you a lot less power for the sub, enough that it will be noticeable. If you want to use only 1 amp this is the downfall of most 5 channels. Not enough power on the sub channel. Personally I'd do a separate 4 channel to run the mids and highs. It will still power your 10" pretty well, but you will lose a little on the top end, but in fairness most people rarely push their system to the limit in normal listening anyways.

So all that said what would I do?.

-Treat and seal front doors $50
-Replace amp with 5ch $448

Bridge the amp and run 150w to the front stage, run the rear fill of deck power or likely leave it disconnected.

Cruise and enjoy.

I would use the saved cash to purchase a newer deck. I'd look for something with 3 sets of preouts, built in xovers and a bit more eq to play with.

[SlipperyVic]

Put some power to those Alpine speakers before you replace them. I think you will be quite surprised.

[Laffs]

The speakers are in baffles. Entire car has been deadened with brown bread/b-quiet. I want a new head unit but everything double din seems to have ditched the rotary volume knob for buttons which I kind of fucking hate. I bought a newer Clarion a couple years ago to upgrade, button volume control made me want to punch myself in the face a lot.

Also I have a Sirius SCC1 tuner that has a lifetime sub on it (non transferable) that if I go to a new HU basically becomes obsolete.

Am I really giving up that much on the subwoofer? I thought i was going from 500rms to 500rms on the sub channel? Technically don't have to give up the current 500/1 I suppose, just hate mismatched amps because I'm weird. Appreciate the insight, maybe I should put some power to Alpines first before I go whole hog on new speakers.

[SlipperyVic]

Sorry, 4ohm DVC so you're going to have the same power there. For some reason I was thinking SVC.

Your scc1 tuner may work in a newer head unit. If the connector is the same as the one for the newer Sirius adapter. I have a lifetime sub too, but I was told I can transfer it up to 5 times for a $50 fee. I've moved it 3 times so far. My "lifetime" subscription is actually only good for 20 years and I'm 15 deep so I'm not to worried about it.

I hear you on the lack of volume knobs. I still run single DIN's partially because of that. I installed a Alpine ILX-W650 in my wifes car for xmas and I hate the volume buttons. The unit is great, but the buttons suck. Trying to turn up the radio, hit a bump and suddenly I've hit the wrong button and I'm in the menu.

The type of full door sealing and treatment I'm talking about can be found in this video. Seems excessive but it's not. Night and day difference. Installing like this with decent power and most people would be happy without a sub.


https://youtu.be/h3EXuHlBy4M

[RedSN]

... I apparently hate the concept of "Saving Money" (TF is that anyway) been toying with the idea of replacing some of the stereo components that have been in the Mustang since I bought it in 2008.
I went the opposite direction and built my project on the cheap. Looking forward to seeing the opposite. Subscribed.

[Laffs]

Appreciate the video, that install is freaking RAD. Love the riv-nut cover for the window access. Might see if I can source some more sound deadener, dunno if I'll go with the luxury liner, and do that to the fronts. Been meaning to do a full enclosure and amp rack in the trunk since I bought the car over a decade ago, so good excuse to get some MDF and pull the router table out. Guess I could hold off on the new amp and all until I get the sound deadening right then decide if I want to juice it more.

[Laffs]

I went the opposite direction and built my project on the cheap. Looking forward to seeing the opposite. Subscribed.

Might disappoint ya here. Although knowing my fucked up brain if I make the shit I have now sound really good I'll end up in "What would some high dollar shit sounds like" territory.

[Mustang4]

Impressive sound deadening technique in the video. Lot of work but I guess it all depends on what you want or would be happy to end up with.

[Gabe]

I am surprised the door panel with factory clips went back on in that video with the amount of material he added to the doors

Riv-nut tool was very cool

[Laffs]

Def ordered a riv nut gun from Princess Auto after watching that.

[Gabe]

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/45-pc-threaded-insert-and-riveting-tool-kit/A-p2925204e?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvNSFkY3o6AIVSr3ACh3huw-uEAAYASAAEgKZs_D_BwE

[Laffs]

Yep exactly that.

[SlipperyVic]

I just use some real short self tapping screws. The seam is sealed up by deadener anyways. It's worked for me.

I didn't bother with the luxury liner layer in my 'vert. I used some closed cell foam in stick on tiles I got from Amazon for 3 reasons.

1, price
2, price
3, It's a convertible so I get more road noise from the top, or lack there of anyways.

If I had a coupe I'd do the LL.

I also stripped the interior of my car and did the full floor and trunk area. My car is now seriously quiet inside for a 'vert. Out cruising with the top down and all the exhaust sounds seem to be coming from above the window line, not from under the car.