Medium duty truck Hydro boost. Long story long.

[5.4MarkVIII]

We are looking to make moves to get out of this Izuzu we are using for work.
yep. Guys here warned me. I didn’t listen, I’m an idiot but here we are.

We have owned the truck for like 6-7 years. And put a total of about 60k km. Yep that’s it.

In that 6-7 years we have averaged about 10k per year in maintenance and gone threw 3 different truck mechanic shops. 2 turbos compleat brakes maybe twice. And constant sensors and leaky lines of various systems.

A few months ago we blew a PS line. Was able slow the leak with rubber hose and hose clamps and limp it home. It never ran completely empty. But it got real close. I replaced both lines from pump to steering box. Ran fine for weeks and then the turbo went. Had a local shop (big chain) replace the turbo. Came back with the steering weirdly heavy. Took it back they said no problem found.

Not long after we had a brake light come on. Didn’t have time myself so I had my guy take it to the same local shop. They said it was low on fluid topped it up. Couldn’t find a leak anywhere.
Drove it 2 days. Light back on. Took it back to the shop. It was also due for its annual inspection so asked them to do that as well

They can back with a quote for almost $10k. told me the brake lines were leaking. Needed to be replaced front to back. Also told me they needed to replace both front callipers pads and rotors. As well as all 4 rear brake cylinders, shoes and drums on both sides

I was shocked and questioned it because based on my records we had just done all that stuff, granted 4 years ago but only about 40k km worth of driving.

I told them to hold off. Not sure we are gonna put that much in it. Please re assemble and I’ll come get it. Drove home noticed the brake light was still on. Brakes worked but were soft and would not hold pressure. Worse than when we dropped it off.

I pull it into my own shop and start going over it. No leak found on any brake lines. But brake fluid coming out from the rear drum on passenger side. Pull the brakes apart and fine a leaky wheel cylinder. The rubber boot was never put on both cylinders properly and the passenger rear forward cylinder is stamped “drivers rear”. Looks like they shop that did the brakes last time didn’t do it right. So I measure all the specs on the brakes. And they are well well writhing spec. Like Izuzu says minimum 1mill to rivet and I have like 6 left on an 11 mill pad. .
I order both passenger rear wheel cylinders. And replace them. Bleed the brakes. Total work time less than 2 hours and the drum has very little wear.

So now I’m stuck with a truck no local guys want to work on and any one that does either dose a shitty job. Or clearly quotes for stuff that it doesn't need. (I mean they told me the brakes measured out of spec but the drums were never removed) I spoke with the service manager at the last shop after they sent me a $980 bill for the “inspection” including the price of the sticker which they won’t give me because “it needs the brakes done.” But he is “looking into it and will call back” been a week with no call back.


All that aside ever since they had it and it came back worse than it went in. I have done the work listed above and now bled the brakes to Izuzu recommended procedures 3 times. But every time I push the brake peddle it goes 3/4 of the way to the floor before brakes apply and feels squishy untill you release and then re apply and then the brakes are fantastic. But leave the peddle for a min and it goes back to one squishy peddle that you have to pump


Not great to drive. But I’m confident it’s not an air issue. I’m worried it’s the master cylinder or the power steering pump because it’s a hydro boost system.

I’m looking at trading it. But need to have it running and probably stickered so we can use it before that time comes.

[hammerhead]

DOT standards are changing. OnDrive is replacing the MTO. I don't know all of what the changes are going to be because they haven't been able to make the transition on time and are now saying 2024. Your current vehicle may need an annual etest in the future if not already and that will happen with every annual safety inspection. All these changes will increase the cost. At the end of the day it's really up to the mechanics discretion. In my opinion I would avoid large shops such as dealer shops and would try to find a small independent. Maybe sell the truck as is or trade in. Commercial diesels are money pits if you can maybe down size with a gas engine, something new with warranty that will cover the cost of repairs at the annuals for five years. I would think its your brake boost or master cylinder. If you have a comfortable shop to work in maybe find a mobile guy that will come to you. You can also consider a lease with maintenance built into the monthly payment. That can sometimes be a nightmare as well. Doogie is going to get tough on diesel.

[Laffs]

Don't beat yourself up too much, you could have bought a Durastar with a shitty maxxforce and had it melt down or a Hino with the shitty automatic and problematic emissions system. All these trucks can and will have problems and when they do the money starts flowing.

If you are going to a big name/chain shop and you are a small fleet of 1-3 trucks expect delays, huge quotes, and questionable diag at times. Those guys make their money on big fleet accounts where they don't even have to call in a price its just "fix it so I can get back on the road". I have had a few similar stories, our float trailer was in need of "full brakes, suspension and axle rebuild" at the big guys shop to the tune of $15k and brought it to a small indy shop in farm country and it was $1800 in shoes, couple S cams and some cleanup and its been great since. Likewise another shop know for being "the best" in town told me a Durastar's turbo was totally shot and needed a full on rebuild, brought it to another shop and a $280 in vacuum lines later she's all good.

What is it the truck is being used for? Large appliance delivery's with a lift gate? What's your service area like and how often is the truck at capacity? What size cell is on it currently? I have an E450 with a 16' cell and liftgate thats running the old tried and true V10 inside. Maintenance has been oil changes and filters, she will never set a mileage record but never lets us down. Was reasonable to purchase as well. Have a couple Savana 3500s with same size cell and the 6.0, amazing bulletproof trucks but man I haven't been able to buy them for a price that makes sense in about 3 years.

I'd consider private sale, I sold two Durastars last year both with near as makes no difference 200k kms and was given a 20k trade estimate and was easily able to get 28k for them with very little hassle. Selling commercial stuff is much less of a pain in the ass than passenger cars, seems folks looking for medium to HD stuff are a lot more serious about buying.

[5.4MarkVIII]

Truck is for appliance delivery’s. We have a back up trailer but it doesn't hold enough and it’s hard to find workers that can back up a trailer with ruining bumpers constantly. We still have an older chev E3500 cube van with a 16 foot box. It it’s a short roof one. So not enough height for what we need. It was mostly for garbage and scrap runs until it detonated the flex plate. Been sitting for a couple years now so probably needs a lot more at this point and I’m not sure it’s worth it.

Ideally my plan is to find another used or potentially new truck that I can take the 20ft x 8 foot tall box off the Izuzu and put it on another truck. I almost jumped at a late 70’s c70 that had an almost mint cab but my worry is if the government continues their assault on vehicles. It will become impossible to keep an older truck like that on the road.

Reaching out to my ford guy and the local chev dealer to see options is a 450,550 or 650 sized truck to use my box on or possible pick up another e3500 or e350 and hopefully find a decent one with an 18 foot box and at least the 7 foot interior height.


We looked at a lease on a new Izuzu cuz other than maintenance the truck hits all the other boxes. But they want over $2500 per month on a lease

More than I want to be dropping right now.

[Laffs]

20' cell is 550 or 650 territory. I wouldn't want anything from the 70s for parts availability alone let alone the fact you would need to reframe and deal with GVWR headaches. New won't be cheaper than $2500 a month on that size.

I bought a couple Hinos out of Florida last year from a place outside Daytona Beach. Dealer was great to deal with, trucks were super clean and no rust obviously. Part of the deal was they paid a driver service to bring the truck up to Detroit Michigan for me, I had Cole International do my import paperwork and then brought it back ourselves. Will continue to buy US trucks, even with exchange and import you get a better truck for your money,

[ZR]

Shitty deal all round.
Did you confirm, rears adjusted correctly?
Did you pull fronts, remove pads to check anything binding (we continue to get rides in that have been to multiple shops (with estimates at infinity for every part under the sun) for low to no pedal only to find front and or rear pads partially jammed. Only requires brake service to bring pedal back to full snuff).
If master went dry, did you bleed at master itself?
If ABS, may need dealer scan tool to cycle to correctly bleed.

[5.4MarkVIII]

20' cell is 550 or 650 territory. I wouldn't want anything from the 70s for parts availability alone let alone the fact you would need to reframe and deal with GVWR headaches. New won't be cheaper than $2500 a month on that size.

I bought a couple Hinos out of Florida last year from a place outside Daytona Beach. Dealer was great to deal with, trucks were super clean and no rust obviously. Part of the deal was they paid a driver service to bring the truck up to Detroit Michigan for me, I had Cole International do my import paperwork and then brought it back ourselves. Will continue to buy US trucks, even with exchange and import you get a better truck for your money,

Hardest part we are dealing with is any dealer I talk to that specializes in big trucks is all over it until they find out I’m a small town shop and looking for a single truck. Then it always turns into this is it take it or leave it.

[5.4MarkVIII]

Shitty deal all round.
Did you confirm, rears adjusted correctly?
Did you pull fronts, remove pads to check anything binding (we continue to get rides in that have been to multiple shops (with estimates at infinity for every part under the sun) for low to no pedal only to find front and or rear pads partially jammed. Only requires brake service to bring pedal back to full snuff).
If master went dry, did you bleed at master itself?
If ABS, may need dealer scan tool to cycle to correctly bleed.

I checked in the manufacture procedure guide and to bleed the master it just says to follow brake bleed procedure. Abs fuse out. Truck on. Ect.

For rear adjustment it says to back up and cycle brake a few times. So far has not improved.

I have not pulled the front apart yet. Was going to be the next step as soon as I have a chance.

[ZR]

Backing up and tapping will finish off the adjustment but initial adjustment has to be close enough in the first place.
Truck off, bleed master only regardless of what the book says.

[5.4MarkVIII]

K I’ll give it a shot. Thanks

[Laffs]

Hardest part we are dealing with is any dealer I talk to that specializes in big trucks is all over it until they find out I’m a small town shop and looking for a single truck. Then it always turns into this is it take it or leave it.

If you’re interested I can give you the name of my dealer and guy in Florida and a dealer in North Carolina I have dealt with in past. They had no issues with me buying a single truck and treated me extremely well.

On our lift dump (sought after and specialized piece of equipment) he knocked enough down on the phone to cover plane tickets down to come inspect the unit and another couple grand off in person.

[5.4MarkVIII]

If you’re interested I can give you the name of my dealer and guy in Florida and a dealer in North Carolina I have dealt with in past. They had no issues with me buying a single truck and treated me extremely well.

On our lift dump (sought after and specialized piece of equipment) he knocked enough down on the phone to cover plane tickets down to come inspect the unit and another couple grand off in person.

I’ll keep that I mind.

I’m waiting to hear back on one from a customers shop. Place we have not delt with yet due to distance but we got chatting while I was fixing his washer. A local fire station is upgrading a truck they want to go away from gas to diesel. So they are taking the 20ft rescue box off the back and putting it in a new truck and will be selling off the old gasser cab and chassis.

[RedSN]

Don’t you already have a fire truck?

[5.4MarkVIII]

Don’t you already have a fire truck?

Yes lol. But it’s older and has the seats behind the cab. So cab won’t work with my box without major modifications.

This potential one is a mid 2000’s.

[RedSN]

Yeah…but…who would have the coolest delivery truck in town with a fire engine setup?

[hammerhead]

Fire trucks are maintained beyond normal thinking. I've known guys who serviced them and it could be a sweet purchase.