Just curious with the reason for the extra relay in picture 25
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Just curious with the reason for the extra relay in picture 25
They are using that one in the truck as the starter relay. That way, no live large cable running front to rear that might / would cause a fire should the car suffer a catatrophic accident and damage the cable itself. Smaller feed rear to front would mearly burn off in a second or two vs the huge amps the larger cable would carry.
Cool stuff for a race car but to me a fail on a street ride that has big amp acc's to feed. Yes most can and will run it that way with little to no trouble while a number of others will see voltage related issues with ignition system or even stereos. Live cable well supported and properly routed to prevent damage is well within the bounds of being safe, few late model rides have trunk mounted batts.
absolutely the best way...reason?
the hot wire...in other words the red wire will be very short in the trunk to the solenoid
just safer imo not having a long hot wire to the front of the car which could short out
& ground somewhere causing a fire...also guys will run this wire under the car...dont like this personally
if you want to run a long hot wire under car & leave the solenoid on the fender in the front
get some plastic abs under the car & run the wire thru it
sorry Rick...just read your post...after I posted...did you know about the plastic abs trick?
Not a bad idea on the surface but bet it would make the whole affair large enough that it would be more prone to being snagged by a curb / speed bump etc.
Inline fuse is usually in place for ECM and related units only, full power through the main cable to the front. Boosting an HHR or Saturn from the front / underhood terminal, many times results in electric power steering fuse blown. Always best to boost via the battery only regardless of what the label under the hood says. Wish they would have made it more easily reached.
Impact shut off is for fuel pump.
Unfortunately those vehicles tend to be locked out and the trunk wont pop til it has power. Also the jumper leads under the hood are terrible.
Gm was winning in the battery orientation department for a good number of years... (sarcasm)
So Rick, if you were relocating a battery to the truck of a Fox with a stock starter...how would you do it? This is basically what I want to know as I trust your opinion and knowledge.
If it makes much of a difference, id prefer to leave my stock solenoid in the engine compartment.
Done dozens of battery relocations / secondary battery installs for huge sound systems back in the 80s and 90's. No problems with running large gage(4g isn't large, lol) cables front to back as long as they are protected from chafing thru as well as fused if the cable is grounded thru an accident/crash. Biggest one I did was three locomotive batteries in the back of a van - something like 300 lbs of batteries powering a 10 000W sound system - current potential was something insane like 10 000 CCA @ 14.4 V.
I always use ANL325A forklift style fuse / holder within 12" of the battery. This will pass 700A of instantaneous current without blowing, plenty for any starter. Don't forget to use at least one equally sized ground cable between the battery and the frame, AND one between the frame and the engine block ( I use 2).
The front to rear doesn't need a fuse; if car is crashed hard and cable is grounded - rear fuse pops, engine still running; the alternator will burn out in the worst case scenario.
Cars like a 928 Porsche and BMW850 (dual trunk mounted batteries!) with rear mounted OEM batteries had zero fusing for the main cables between battery and starter circuit.
If doing a rear battery; a 4 g is nowhere near enough. Use at least a 2g cable; the big stereo stuff is ok; contrary to lots of naysayers, good welding cable is fine. I have 2/0 running from back to front - came out of my old car is 20 yrs old and not corroded in the least.
Make sure all the connectors are crimped and soldered - one of those puppies is loose and you will have some big problems, incl possibly a fire.
^^good post...Im using welding cable to the front
Ive run the cable on the inside of the car...there are several good locations
especially along the side where the other wires run
but theres always the concern that it could chafe & short
best is trunk solenoid but you still need the heavy wire to the front...
its only hot when you start the engine...Im using the stock alternator too & underdrives
I have some discharge at idle...but I m usually on the highway
even heavy stop & go traffic hasnt been a problem...overheating...yes