Not a Mustang... but for my Lightning... I have removed the 8 bolts for the supercharger and it wont budge HELP!!! does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
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Not a Mustang... but for my Lightning... I have removed the 8 bolts for the supercharger and it wont budge HELP!!! does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
I watched all of his videos he doesn't show how he broke it loose. Just says I'm going to break it loose and then says now it's loose lol.
10lb sledge works well......
If your positive all the bolts are loose, either long bar (with cardboard or similar to protect) or 2x4 under the snout. Can take a sharp pull to break em loose if siliconed into place.
2x4 worked wonders! Thank you!
Got her off so now I've got some cleaning to do. Unfortunately won't be ready for track day but will be there in the fall.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...akon/SUPER.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...kon/SUPER1.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...kon/SUPER2.jpg
Definitely could be worse so I'm happy with that.
Any recommendations for a good cleaner and oil seperator?
Oil separator pronto.
Did the dual JLT set up on my own.
Remove heat exchanger n scrub with Citrus cleaner and a soft brush and rinse with water (warm if you have it / don't use pressurized spray). Do not use anything caustic.
Don't like much they make but I'm happy with my UPR catch can and tests have shown it filters better then the jlt ones, Bob's Autosports is another that I see recommended often
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Is it true you only need a catch can on the drivers side? I would have thought both.
Was doing some reading on the JLT site, for the 05-10 GTsQuote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Buck
http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/in...roducts_id=403Quote:
Most of the oil you will see on the PCV (driver) side on the 2005-10 GT so if you are only getting one make sure it's the driver side.
For the Lightnings it is the Passenger side that is most important.
Al for our 3V drivers side when NA (others have tried both and the passenger gets nothing)Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Buck
When boosted though it swaps to passenger side as the crankcase goes from vacuum to pressurized while in boost.
Key is to not allow it to be pressurized via check valve.
Next question: If I knocked a ground wire off while I was in there would that cause the starter to crank slowly?
Got everything back together and runs perfect but when starting it it is a slow crank and then it fires up. Thought maybe the battery was dead so we took it for a good drive Saturday and Sunday and it is still doing it.
Easy test, hook a booster cable to the neg terminal, other end to a clean spot on the engine, retest. If it cranks faster, ground is your problem, if not, likely starter motor. Mod motors are typically very easy on em though, get the odd one in thats failed because case is corroded through.
Got her figured out. Battery had a dead cell. Replaced under the Motorcraft Battery Warranty. All seems good now.
Attachment 6083Get the L&S separator. I installed it on my 02 Harley. It's a good installation because it drains back into the crankcase, so zero maintenance.
I was getting a lot of oil in the intake before I installed it.
http://www.lnsauto.com/articles/ford..._article.shtml
Edit: Yes, only passenger side is required.
From everything I've read you don't want to add oil captured in a catch can back into the crank, it often is contaminated with water.
Interesting concept. Have you / do you know of anyone that has pulled the intake say X number of miles later to confirm it's indeed keep oil out of the intake?Quote:
Originally Posted by 12GrabberGT
Not a fan of the L&S because it drains back in to the crankcase.Quote:
Originally Posted by 12GrabberGT
Among other things.Quote:
Originally Posted by NickD
Many happy users in the Lightning/HD Community. Seperator + Turkey Pan plug mod and you get zero to a tiny bit of oil in the intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZR
From my own experimenting, bulk of the blow by occurs at low rpm / high boost roll ons. Suspect auto in the L makes it just that much more prone. I've also seen a dramatic reduction in accumulation by changing oil grades, although many will disagree.
After spring track day, lap after lap after lap of full boost n high rpm, barely a whisper of oil in the separator. Do a night of 5th or 6th gear roll ons where it builds boost early under high load / low rpm, can have an 1/8" of oil in there. Results have been consistent.