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Car in question is a daily-driven 2019, has rust/fallout all over and it’s a pearl white, the fallout is likely coming from a manufacturing plant near the work parking lot. Has nothing on it as of yet, I do plan to use some kind of wax/sealer once a year before winter, but I want to get the fallout off first.
Clay bar and elbow grease should fix it up.
I would highly recommend using this on your vehicle. This product is designed for the removal of any contamination that is imbedded into your paint. The smell is unpleasant but you can get it in a “lemon” scent LOL. It smells like death with a hint of lemon. This product can be used on windshields, plastics, rims, etc...you then could follow up with a clay bar or a clay towel or clay mitt with your favorite clay lube to make sure you got everything off. The Iron X will remove 99% of it off.
I can go over the how to use it if you want in a separate post.
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this is where I usually go to order it from.
https://www.autoobsessed.com/product...iABEgKBk_D_BwE
Get a decontaminator, like Iron X, can be found on Amazon. You’d wash, then decontaminate, wash again then clay bar. Then wax it. Decontaminators turn the contamination on the car purple. The more purple the more fallout/metal particles are on the car. Cleans the brake dust from wheels really well too.
After you get it fixed up, I’d recommend a ceramic coat to help protect it and make cleaning easier in the future.
Yes @Scrape I would love to know how hard it is to use if you have the time. I have used clay bar in the past (still have some) and was trying to avoid doing it again, but if it’s the same amount of work I guess I’ll just clay it.
So far I still prefer old-school waxing, since I haven’t really been impressed with CC, and there’s nobody in my area I have seen do a good job with it. Many guys have told me about a CC you can do at home, but I’m sure that stuff sucks, and I’d rather just use wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by Armen
Can this be used on PPF ? Thanks G>
Quote:
Originally Posted by xeninworx
Shake, spray directly on the surface after your wash, agitation with a wash mitt or ideally use the Optimum big red wash sponge. This seems to a better job to spread the product evenly and you really don’t want to have a smelly wash mitt. Make sure you do this in the shade or you will damage your paint.
I am copying this from their website to make it easy and accurately.
- Removes iron particles and prevents the spread of iron-related damage & helps to protect your vehicle from paint system failure.
- Safe to use, acid free, and pH neutral (pH 6-7).
- Safe to use on clear coat paint.
- Safe to use on aluminum, chrome, alloy, or clear coated wheels.
Directions:
- Shake bottle.
- Wash vehicle, rinse vehicle, and remove the majority of the water with a quick towel "once-over".
- Spray IronX across the contaminated area.
- After 2 ~ 5 minutes rinse off or wash off if dried (depending on environment and temperatures).
- Verify all IronX is completely removed and then dry vehicle.
- Remove nozzle and replace cap after use (to avoid leakage).
Precautions:
- Test in inconspicuous area before use.
- Do not use on anodized surfaces.
- Do not use on unknown aftermarket finishes, or low cost acrylic paint.
- Avoid using on fabric convertible tops or rubber that contains recycled tires.
- Keep out of reach of children and pets.
- Do not ingest.
- Use outside or in ventilated area.
- Avoid prolonged contact with skin.
- Avoid inhalation.
- Use PPE as needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponyryd
Test it first to be safe. I did it on my BMW and was ok. no stains. Never tried on the Tiguan yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CON VERT
Thanks Scrape , I think I will leave it to the pro's when it needs to be done, till then I'm with Ponyryd clay bar and some wax ~
Just remember that when you clay bar you are micro marring the paint with scratches and will require paint correction. Clay bar is not the solve all solution to removing contaminated painted surfaces. You always need to take the least aggressive route and take off the least amount of paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by CON VERT
Ceramic coatings have improved over the years. I purchased a product from a company called The Last Coat - Black Ice Ceramic Coating Spray.which can be found here. https://carzilla.ca/collections/bran...ic-coating-4oz
It was much easier to apply and buff off. So far the coating on my Tiguan is still going strong. 7 months later and two coats I am very impressed. The dirt lhttps://carzilla.ca/collections/bran...ic-coating-4oziterally just washes off.
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and the plug for the products that I used.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponyryd
I don’t think so.Quote:
Originally Posted by CON VERT
The usual answer is yes but always always always test first just in case. Every vendor makes different formulations of a product so the last thing I want to say is yes. I have tested Car Pro on many cars with PPF and no issues. A person maybe inclined to order chemical guys or Adams version of fallout remover and discover that it damaged their particular PPF. Too many brands of PPF and too brands of fall out remover so I always say test in an inconspicuous spot first. If it does react then areas close to the PPF need to be avoided.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xeninworx
So Iron X is removing contamination from the PPF?
You got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by xeninworx
This is very helpful but your write up is different from theirs....should this product be sprayed on and rinsed off, or actually agitated?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrape
Just clay it and wax it.
Yes spray on, agitate, rinse off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponyryd
^^^^understatement!! I warned my neighbor I was doing it as I'm sure they could smell it as well. I need to do it again soon on my pearl paint on the MKX. Think I'll put on an N95 mask...Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrape
https://www.autoglym.com/pub/media/c...ain-mag500.jpg
Canadian Tire
Works amazing
Will NEVER own a white car again let alone 2 at the same time.
I love my white cars, just a bitch to keep , not as bad as black thou !
Agreed!Quote:
Originally Posted by CON VERT
Thx for all the replies, my Iron-X (low odour, lol) came today from Carzilla (thx for the link Scrape). Attachment 24293
Here is the vehicle in question, it’s pearl white, and pretty dirty but you can see the fallout pretty clearly. The pic is taken from the drivers fender, which I used clay on last week, door shows a lot of fallout, and it’s on basically every other panel except the hood.Attachment 24294
So my suggestion is to do the entire car still even though you have clay’d your hood.
Here are photos that I took when I had my pearl white Infiniti Q50 Red Sport and this is what you should see as it reacts.
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Had some time today but my wife was gone in the Durango so I gave my G35 a de-fallouting instead, it was worse than hers by far.
I’m honestly very impressed, it was super easy to use, and actually didn’t smell too bad (although I can smell it sitting down typing this, lol). Only tip I will give is to get more than you think you need, since I only got the .5L bottle and I still have half my car to do, as well as hers, and hers is huge.
I added some pics here, first is the car after a hard wash (but air-dried overnight), second is after a quick spray with Iron-X, third is after a quick wipe with an old mitt, fourth is after a GOOD rinse (it takes a lot to get off if you have crevices like this car does, and you’ll also probably spend some time rinsing your driveway).
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Cool, what a difference!
Fantastic results.