Anyone know what size studs are in the factory manifold to midpipe flange? Dorman part number on rock auto and ctire is a M12x1.75, which is wayyyy too big and no where near fitting.
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OEM Ford studs are deadly expensive, I use bulk exh studs plus correct style nuts (with built in washer).
Sorry, can't recall exact specs.
No problem. Fighting a million little issue now
New FRPP intake leaks under the the tstat (bad, enough that it pours out and puddles under back of engine soon as you turn key. Also think my coolant level sensor finally bit the dirt. Hoping its just a bad gasket under the manifold
Exhaust like I said wont sinch up to the flange, its a 2-3 mm gap all around. Was trying to use a bolt but it doesnt want to pull tight. Tried re-using the factory studs from the driverside, too long, cant get the flange over them.
Odd on the intake, use new gaskets?
Drivers side studs won't work, bottoms on the raised section of the stud before it's tight enough to seal. Pass side has to be right, really really tight, suggest stud n nut only vs bolt.
Did you use a new OEM Ford gasket on the pass side? Terrible track record with the aftermarket ones. Be sure to use a liberal smear of high heat silicone on both sides of the gasket. Drivers side seals fine as is. Gotta wonder WTF was going through the mind of the person that made a ball socket on one side and that screw up flat flange n gasket deal on the pass side.
Brand new fel-pro gaskets all around (intake manifold and exhaust). Exhaust gasket is almost trivial at this point, there was an air gap no gasket could ever seal. Might call up ford dealer for the oem gasket seeing as I flexed the hell out of the one trying to get the thing to seal.
Just discovered that the 99-00 and 01-04 intake manifold gaskets are different PN, wondering if revised material/oring design because the port size and bolt pattern remains consistent throughout.
With gasket out, will the pipe not sit virtually flat on the manifold?
Barely start drivers side, fully tighten pass side first.
Hope things smooth out for you.
Yea, it will its just the bolt I was trying to use was bottoming out in the manifold I believe, so it wasn't pulling it tight. I had the whole xpipe loose all over, wish it hadnt have been tackwelded together at somepoint as dealing with it in a 3pc form would be easier.
Me too. Getting nickled and dimed to death, cost of gaskets (will neeed a new set), coolant, new hardware (2x sets of clutch and flywheel bolts, but hey the ARP stuff held torqued to spec all around!) is well over 300 dollars now.
Satisfaction will come when your done and you know it's 100%