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Thread: Header Clearance

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZR View Post
    I know it'll hurt taking a hammer to new headers but a dent won't make an ounce of perf difference. Can make a pretty clean job of it by marking, removing, lay one hammer against it and strike with another (eye protection in place please).
    There you go with your blacksmithing again. I won't do it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyryd View Post
    Yes, shim the lower stud where the mount goes into the subframe, not the upper engine mounts. You can also use a level on the intake, to allow you to possibly just shim the driverís side to get the clearance you need, and ya, there are locating pins, but they donít mean much at all, more a reference point than anything.
    Couldn't even get the mount-kmember nuts off. Impact and everything. I let it soak in penetrating oil and I'll take a torch to it. Might order new mounts anyway. But I won't get a chance to get back to my work space for a while.

    In the meantime I decided to look at other headers and noticed something I didn't before. I put together a collage thinking someone like myself might stumble upon this thread way in the future and it may help

    All shown are drivers side header. NOT to scale. The headers on the right all follow the same primary routing, with the '1st' and 'last' primary going to the 'outside' of the collector. The column on the left are a bit different. Curious enough, the MAC picture are the ones I took off the car (full of holes) but fit nonetheless, and have the same orientation as the Flowtechs that didn't fit, perhaps the primaries on the MACs are 1-5/8", I know the flowtechs are 1-3/4"

    shorty_header_comparison.jpg

  2. #12
    nom nom nom RedSN's Avatar
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    ^^^interesting collage of various popular shorties.
    Looking at that, I’m quite happy with my BBK’s
    -Don____________
    ďI'm running out of crayons trying to explain it to them!Ē

  3. #13
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    Installed Prothane motor and trans mounts and BBK ceramic unequal shorty headers. One side mount to kmember nut was stuck real bad, it took a plumbing torch and impact to get it loose.

    For those who don't know or might be interested, 87-93 mustangs used 2 different style motor mounts. from 87-90ish hard tops had 1 style, and convertibles had another. From around 90ish-93 Ford used the 'vert style' mounts on both hard tops and convertible mustangs.

    The vert mounts apparently bring the engine down slightly (0.5"-1" from what I've read) compared to the original hard top mounts.

    Prothane mounts are said to be designed after the early 87-90ish hard top mounts, Energy suspensions are said to be modeled after the convertible mounts.

    I have an 88 and since I wanted header clearance, I went with the Prothanes to keep the engine up. And look at all that clearance!

    You can't see the rubber on my OEM mounts but they were hard and cracked pretty bad.IMG_2957 - Copy.jpgIMG_2988 - Copy.JPGIMG_2989 - Copy.JPG

  4. #14
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    Were the two motor mount flange nuts you removed the locking type with a serrated base?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LX89 View Post
    Were the two motor mount flange nuts you removed the locking type with a serrated base?
    The nuts removed were in bad shape. One needed a torch. They were flanged but I donít think serrated. Not sure if they had any kind of lock. I bought grade 10 nylon locking nuts and flat grade 10 washers to replace. Both zinc plated. If you need some I have lots left over! I can ship for a few bucks.

  6. #16
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    My 89 Mustang shop manual mentions self locking bolts and nuts for the motor mounts that must be replaced with new ones when removed.

    Just wondering if your car had self locking bolts/nuts for the motor mounts.

  7. #17
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    If using the old nuts n worried it could back off, lil dab of loctite and your golden.
    Original nut is typically this style with a cast in washer.
    Many of the aftermarket mounts (if they include a nut) are poly lock.


  8. #18
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    I've been looking at the Summit Racing foxbody kit that is possibly made by Energy Suspension going by part of the part number.
    They don't include the motor mount nuts.
    Nuts are 14mm x 2 I think.

    The Summit kit is much cheaper than the over priced Energy Suspension mounts.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-7741124

  9. #19
    Admin ZR's Avatar
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    All too many try to give you the idea a part is made by company A by using a similar (or even exact same) part number when it's not. Those look like a more OE style stamped bracket. Hard to say how good until you have then in your hands, see if they fit and how long they last. For me, wish the softer / no vibrations added / fit like a glove OE mounts were still available.

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